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CLIENT
DIARIES
Island
Hopping, Colonsay,Jura and Islay
June 10th – June 20th 2000.
Jean & Charles Hamilton( both in our 60’s)
Saturday
20th June
Travelling by train from Stockport, arrived at Dalmally on time
and Morag MacDougall was at the station to meet us. Later on Douglas
came to check over the bikes for us and check the route details
etc. Morag kindly drove us up to the hotel in Dalmally for our evening
meal as it was pouring with rain and she also collected us afterwards.
Sunday
21st June
We set of through heavy rain along the main road to Taynuilt hoping
the weather would improve and it would warm up a bit. I ended up
giving my husband a spare headscarf which he donned thankfully under his helmet to keep his ears
warm! The wind made cycling quite hard but we really enjoyed the
ride and reached Oban for a late lunch.
Morag was waiting at the car park at the ferry with the suitcase
and rucksack and stayed chatting with us for some time. The ferry
was delayed but as the sun was shining we were happy to watch all
the comings and goings, especially a huge low loader which had to
negotiate the ramp and exit using special rear steering wheels.
As the ferry to Mull earlier in the day had broken down our ferry
went there first before heading for Colonsay where we arrived two
hours late.
We managed to get the two bikes and luggage off using the car ramp
but “Charlie” in his blue and white bus was at the passenger ramp.
So we waited for until he drove up to take the luggage and then
set off for Seaview(about 3 miles). Ann Lawson had delayed our meal
as she knew the ferry was late and we really enjoyed it.
Monday 22nd June
Another very windy day with heavy showers but we rode up to
the beautiful Kiloran Bay and admired all the wild flowers there.We
had soup for lunch at The Pantry in Scalasaig and were lucky to
find the tiny book shop on the west side of the Island open. Back
to Seaview: Annie served another delicious evening meal in her large
conservatory which really does have the most wonderful sea views
as well as a good view of the standing stones in the next field.
Tuesday
23rd June
The winds were really gale force and the waves were crashing on the side of the rocks so we decided it was too risky to
ride the bikes and walked all round the 8 mile Island circular road
instead. At one point a sheep dog appeared and kept begging us to
throw stones. It was hard work and after half a mile we gave up
trying so he went off home!
Wednesday
24th June
Thankfully the winds had abated and it was a really lovely day.
We rode down to the south end of the Island and had a walk. The
buttercups on the flat shore line shone in the sun. After lunch
– back to Scalasaig. We walked up to the monument and had clear
views all around. We also called at the hotel shop and discovered
that the young girl working there came from the Tasmania and she
was now living on Colonsay.
Charlie in his blue and white bus was waiting at the quay with our
luggage and said he would put it on the ferry while we took our
bikes on. How foolish we were to trust him! As our bikes went on
last, by the time we discovered he had forgotten the luggage he
was already doing his other job of casting off the ferry. We shouted
down to him as the gap between us and quay widened and too late
he produced the luggage from the boot of his bus! So we set off
for Islay minus luggage wondering how we would manage.
On arrival at Port Askaig on Islay we ended up in the hotel being
comforted by the owners who had already heard of our predicament
from Charlie. Between them they were trying to contact the local
fishing boats to see if any of them were near enough to Colonsay
to call in –but to no avail. Meanwhile Mrs Urquhart arrived for
our missing luggage and we all had a good laugh! After a while Mrs
Urquhart took the only remaining gear in our panniers and we cycled
the 8 miles to her lovely home in Bridgend. She was kindness itself
and when we arrive d a clean nightie and pyjamas were laid on the
bed . What a day!!
Thursday
25th June
First a trip to Bowmore on the bikes to the doctor for my medication which had been in the luggage. I must remember in future
always to carry some with me .We stocked up on socks, pants and
a new tee shirt each and also contacted Scottish Cycling Holidays.
It seemed that we would be minus our luggage until back at Dalmally(one
boat per week Colonsay-Islay).
In the afternoon we cycled to Port Charlotte to visit the Wildlife
Centre and on the way Sheila and Bob(who had been staying with us
at Annie’s on Colonsay) caught up with us in their car. They were
renting a cottage for 10 days just up the hill from Port Charlotte
and invited us up for a cup of tea. Charles was very impressed with
the Wildlife Centre which we visited first and then made our way
up to see Sheila and Bob. The cottage was first class with tremendous
views across the bay to Bowmore with the Paps of Jura in the distance.
We were very lucky to see a Barn Owl which nests in the farm buildings and also a hare which sat
nearby in the field. Sheila and Bob were quite concerned about our
luggage but later in the evening we had some great news from Mrs
Urquhart. The chap from the Port Askaig Hotel is also a member of
the lifeboat crew and while on a training exercise that evening
had a flash of inspiration. As they were quite near Colonsay he
go permission form the coastguard – a certain Charlie! (also bus
driver cum dockside hand) to call in and our luggage was on the
way. It arrived at 11.15pm and needless to say the RNLI received
a big donation and many thanks.
Friday
26th June
In the morning after a short walk by the river we visited the
Batik Studio of Liz Sykes in the Square at Islay House. She had
only moved into the premises the previous Monday but kindly gave
us tea and biscuits. She sells Batik dyed scarves and prints of
her own work as well as cards and pictures.
In the afternoon we cycled to the RSPB Reserve where we sat and
had our lunch. There was not a lot of bird life as it really was
the wrong time of the year but we saw several herons and hares.
We had the wind behind us going so the ride back against the wind
was much harder.
Saturday
27th June
An early start today—we left Bridgend at 7.55am and with the
wind against us all the way to Port Ellen we just made it to the
ferry with 10 minutes before it left at 9.50. I certainly found
the 12mile ride hard work and did wonder at times if we would miss
the ferry!
Mr Norman met us off the ferry to take our luggage which we had
made sure was on this time. Tarbet looked a nice little town but
we still had a long way to go to our next stop at Kilmartin so we
didn’t stop but continued to Lochgilphead to visit the village fête
and watched a funny circus type act involving a ladder amongst other
things. It did seem a long ride today but it wasn’t too hilly and
we reached Kilmartin at about six.
Sunday
28th June
We walked to the cairn and standing stones just opposite where
we stayed and then went on to Kilmartin village about one mile away.
There we visited a very nice craft shop/wood turners and also the museum. Kilmartin Glen is
full of standing stones, cairns and henges and the whole history
was presented really well with an audio-visual display, shop and
museum. We also had an excellent lunch there –certainly a place
not to miss!
We left at about 1.15 and although the ride alongside Loch Awe is
very beautiful it is also very hilly with some climbs of 1 in 5.
Wonderful downhill but very hard on the up and we did not reach
our B&B until nearly 6pm. It also turned out to be a very hot
day so we were glad it wasn’t any further. Mrs Wright fortunately
does evening meals and we had a real feast at a very reasonable
rate.
Monday
29th June
The ride to Taynuilt was fairly hilly at first but then we had
a lovely descent by the river into the village. We visited the old
Iron Works which were very interesting and after an excellent lunch
in the Robin’s Nest Cafe we continued along the main road back to
Dalmally, stopping on our way to visit Cruachan Hydro Electric Power
Station. Again a very interesting place and free to visitors who
arrive by bike!
I had mixed feelings on reaching Dalmally—I was glad to get there
but sad that our holiday was over. However we had one more treat
to come—Morag MacDougall kindly ran us back to Taynuilt in the evening
to hear a Fiddle Orchestra play in the newly refurbished Village
Hall. There were also two Gaelic singers performing and it was a
wonderful evening bringing our memorable holiday to a perfect conclusion..
Many
strange co-incidences seemed to happen during our tour especially
on Islay. The most amazing was that Christine Urquhart’s daughter
we discovered lives on the Isle of Man just across the road from
a friend of ours Mrs Tony. She has two cats both of which spent
a lot of time with Tony and when we were staying with him two years
ago one of the cats used to sleep on our bed. Strange but true!!
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GREAT
GLEN CYCLE ROUTE TOUR
Mr J Spurgeon 12th - l9th August 2000.
(This route is differs slightly from the brochure tour and
follows the Group Tour route. It is normally supported by a vehicle and guide)
Saturday
12th August
Generally smooth train journey Leagrave-Kings Cross, GNER to Edinburgh,
Scotrail to Inverness (arrive about on time). Scotrail need to get
things worked out: blamed lack of seat reservations on computer
error- it wasn't a computer that gave the formation two Coach As
and two Bs! Cycle collected but exchanged due to what looked like
a slight wheel deformation rubbing on brake block, Second cycle
still seemed to clank in the crank department and front mudguard
vibrated at times, but I soon forgot these. Accommodation acceptable
but no cycle cover. Gave the bike a workout to Tesco on the Elgin
Road where I dodged a shower by having dinner in the café.
Sunday
13th August
A look at my OS map suggested a fairly easy day apart from the start,
so had time to go to morning service at the Cathedral.(choir on
holiday but a refreshing invitation to the congregation to join
in the hymns vigorously as a consequence). Pleasant amble by the
Ness before the main road which, although lightly trafficked, made
me get a move on. The climb to 300m in one hill determined that
I would not try to stay on the saddle. I was grateful later that,
having walked for a few yards here, there was no disgrace in walking
when the terrain was much more difficult The panniers had to be
adjusted to make a tight hold on the frame as they tended to bounce
and foul the wheels when standing on the pedals. Cool on the heights
but seemed remote. The exertions of a first day made the climb up
Glen Convinth tiring. The sense of moonscape advertised in the Forestry
Commission sheet was exaggerated and not helped by the fact that
the road had long been realigned and widened! Exciting descent to
the honeypot of Drumnadrochit where I vitsited the 'Official' monster
exhibition (a little pricey). Plenty of time before ambling round
the villages to accommodation. Pleasant house and a proprietress
who subtly and skilfully facilitated conversation among her guests.at
the t;able. Visited Urquhart Castle in early evening - hardly an
English speaker in sight. Dinner in a pleasant cafe bar: Sunday
roast of course, but why does even this have to be served with a
salad!
Monday
14th August
Rain, heavy at times, overnight made an alarming noise on the velux
rooflights and disturbed sleep, With some trepidation left ready
to don waterproofs. But hill mist uncovered the next climb, to Balbeg,
just before I tackled it. No difficulty in finding the track, using
the extra route sheet and signing on-site. Just as well it was well
signed as the track seemed to be interrupted by all manner of gates.
Soon settled down to a fine high level narrow track, easy to follow,
but very rough and not without danger in places tone section was
on the edge of a 200 foot sheer drop), especially with panniers.The
descent hairpins were a test of the strength of the fingers on the
brakes! The hardest part of the day, and the week as it turned out,
was the re-ascent of the Creag nan eun from the hostel, with unrelenting
rises culminating in a zigzag upwards which was the more disconcerting
because of the severity of the climb and the lack of signs to confirm
you were on the right route (little doubt in retrospect). At times
I could hardly PUSH the bike up the gradient! A grossly over priced
snack at Invermoriston Hotel for lunch but the next stage to Fort
Augustus was either less demanding, or (probably) the surface was
smoother. The mile to the accommodation was no problem and my room
had an excellent view over thin woodland. Given a lift to the village
with its range of museums and canal locks and a good meal in a packed
Lock Inn.
Tuesday
15th August
Before starting out on the towpath, I looked with some amazement
at the scale of the piers that carried the doomed railway across
the River Oich, The then remoteness of Lochaber seemed to bring
out a noble statement in builders and engineers, The canal was quiet
and soon the dedicated track through the forest (which was much
more enjoyable than that at Invermoriston!) led suddenly to a dead
end - before I noticed a tiny sign diverting the route down a series
of hairpins so steep that I had to get off and 'push' at one point
in case I just went over the edge! More tracks and then a road to
Kilfinnan that seemed to rise and fall precipitously over every
knoll - certainly not
a flat valley road like the map suggested. The long forest track,
by comparison, was smoother, though not without its climbs, and
emptied onto a delightful lochside road where, at Bunarkaig, I had
lunch by the waterside. Even the A82 had deserted the far bank.
The instructions had a bit missing after Gairlochy but the OS map
showed a canal route, which turned out to be rather tedious apart
from the increasingly spectacular views of the Grey Corries and
Mamore Forest, including the Ben. Activity at Banavie, including
Cumbrian fishing boats negotiating the lock staircase on their way
to North Sea grounds (if they didn't rust away first~) and The Jacobite
steam train crawling through the 5mph speed limit over the swing
bridge, preceded an interesting ride through Caol, and a very dangerous
road into Fort William (which the Council must do something about
- the road is too narrow and even patients motorists can't be expected
to tail a cyclist through double white lines for 0.5mile), Plenty to see and do and eat. If you want to go
on the Jacobite, and hadn't booked earlier in the week, you'll be
lucky to get a place.
Wednesday
16th August
Rest Day. Comfortable timing to catch the steam train to Mallaig,
leaving the incessant rain of Fort William for the glimpse of sun
at the far end, I'd already done this journey before and knew what
I was in for, but it must be the most spectacular train journey
in Britain as it dives in and out. of tunnels in rock walls and
over viaducts. On the way, our group of four seats charted progress
as the train took on a Wallace Arnold Coach. The Coach finally beat
us 30miles later when the road became straighter - but we had the
best view of all!
Thursday
17th August
Scotrail features again. Looking for coach Y (on my ticket)
I am, rather brusquely, told by the guard that the cycle will go
in coach A where the racks were. This was no problem with 6 minutes
before the train left, despite trying to balance luggage on the
handlebars as I negotiated a platform congested by luggage, trolleys
and passengers of two 4-coach trains that had arrived together.
It was another matter for the foreign cyclists who were loaded to
the gunnels at Spean Bridge Station, the guard, now more stressed,
bellowed at them to strip down all the luggage and hang the bicycles
by their rear wheels: the train left 5 minutes late! Met by rep
of SCH at Rannoch Station and felt very alone (delightfully) as
I started out on the unfenced road among sheep and rocks, leaving
the station and hotel behind - Pitlochry 40 miles away! Lunch at
Bridge of Gaur, in the sun. In fact the weather improved although,
along the south side of the locks, the cold nights and forest shade
made the ride very cool at times. Kinloch Rannoch was potentially
a watering hole but: one burnt-out hotel and another that had gone
to sleep for the afternoon meant that I had to tackle the hilly
road to Tummel Bridge without refreshment. Tummel Bridge was a disaster-
only a holiday camp style complex in most unsuited surroundings
(if people want this type of entertainment why do they come to a
remote valley in the first place?).
A spectacular gorge to my right as the road falls through the woods
was a little inaccessible so I went on towards Loch Fascally up
and down malicious hills! Dodging the showers and thunder) under
trees meant that this leg of the ride saw me enter Pitlochry rather
late 5.30pm - ready for a cup of tea at the characterful Guest House.
A village full of quality shops and a number of eating places, I
splashed out at a rather expensive one.
Friday
18th August
The map suggested this was an easy final day. But
when you are less fired up for the big hills, even the small ones
can be tiring when they suddenly come up on you! Following the Tummel
to the grand ex-railway bridge and then the Tay, the lane rose and
dipped to the rather ad hoc arrangement where it met the A9, looking
for a better way of joining the riverside track than humping the
cycle, all several stone of it, over a fence, I gave up after passing
the 0.5 mile junction advance sign in the Inverness direction, and
humped it over all the same. The track became braded and several
times I had apparently taken the wrong one and had to push the bike
up a short connection to the right one. At times this was a feat
that demanded full mountaineering skills! Reaching Dunkeld Cathedral
churchyard I met a heavily locked gate and detoured round on a path
to the village proper. No obvious lunch stops so I proceeded to
Biranam to stock up before an al fresco lunch along the lanes south
of Bankfoot, A dramatic sail down into Almondbank, a short call
at Huntingtower Castle and into Perth. (I couldn't see what the
Mart was about - it looked just like a 'country life' shop and a
few offices from the outside). Perth bus drivers are a hazard -
beware! Took a devious route through the town centre to gauge its
character, Quite compact for a main shopping trip but the fringe
areas cover several streets and my evening meal took me nearly to
the station. What a French speaking market was doing that day is
a mystery! A good end to a journey that saw the remote and the urban.
One of the signs that the remote is now a little more of an illusion
than it was is the fact that in only a few hours cycle, you can
reach a superstore with every conceivable foodstuff and meals. Not
always a bad thing if water and glucose tablets is not exactly your
idea of a lunch stop!
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CYCLE
THE MILLENNIUM WAY
8th - 11th July 2002
Jean & Charles Hamilton
Scottish
Passport - Glasgow to Edinburgh.
At
the end of our last cycling holiday on the Outer Hebrides and Skye
Douglas invited us to go on the Glasgow to Edinburgh ride in July
which was being televised for the holiday programme 'Scottish Passport'.
Although this is a ride we had never considered it seemed an opportunity
not to be missed. And so it was that we arrived in Glasgow only
three weeks later. We spent the first night at the Rennie Mackintosh
Hotel, which is near the famous Art School designed by him. During
the evening one of our travelling companions Cliff Acklam knocked
at our door and introduced himself. His friend Robin is also on
the tour.
Tuesday July 8th
We set off early in the morning with Cliff, in a taxi to the start
of the ride at Spears Wharf where, Ian Crighton was waiting with
the bikes and the T.V. crew. Unfortunately Robin had over slept
and got lost on the way so the group consisted of Cliflf, Charles
and myself, plus Brian the presenter. We spent a lot of time sheltering
from the rain while the camera crew and sound man got set up and
I was glad that I had my umbrella with me. In between the showers
we were filmed preparing for the ride and then cycling through the
puddles before we set off to join the main canal to the north of
Glasgow. There were some wonderful views over the town and we were
very surprised to see masses of wild Orchids growing by the canal
.
Some young Glaswegians recognised Brian and asked him about the
filming. They wanted to know if Cliff worked for T.V. too and were
told 'No I work for the Big Yin' (Cliff is in fact Rev. Cliff).
The film crew who had gone on ahead by car were waiting at the canal
junction to the north of Glasgow where they took several shots of
us and some obliging swans who turned up just at the right time.
The crew were all very helpful and friendly and met up with us again
about five miles further along at 'The Stables' pub where we were
treated to lunch. Amazingly it had stopped raining and we were able
to sit outside. After lunch we cycled on to the lifting bridge where
we met a boat and saw the bridge lift to let it go under. All the
traffic was held up for quite a while as the whole thing had to
be filmed from various angles. The next lot of filming was done
with the T.V. camera fixed to a bike ridden by the camera man. He
took shots of us overtaking him and vice versa and during all the
filming we had to try and keep in the same order. At this point
Brian and the crew left us and we carried on to Falkirk to our B
& B at Arbuthnot House,passing the Falkirk Wheel where we will
be filmed tomorrow. Cliff was very relieved to find Robin waiting
there for us, as he thought he might have lost a very good friend.
Wednesday July 9th
Robin joined us today as we cycled up to the Falkirk Wheel where
we were booked to go on with the T.V. crew at 11.00. The sun was
shining and it was a fantastic experience with wonderful views.
The wheel is a marvellous feat of modern engineering and raises
or lowers boats from one canal to the other. It only uses the amount
of power needed to boil two kettles of water to raise 600tons which
seems unbelievable. Soon after our ride on the wheel the heavens
opened and the crowds vanished in no time into the visitor centre
while we took cover in the directors car before adjourning for lunch
at the Union Inn, where Brian was filmed eating their famous steak
pie. Actually he only had a few mouthfuls as he had already eaten
his lunch.
It was still raining when we left the pub and cycled up the road
to be filmed for the last time supposedly heading off to Edinburgh
the next day. There was an added bonus as a canal boat passed by
and we quickly had to dash back and do the same bit again in order
to include it.
Back at Arbuthnot House Brian was filmed as if just arriving for
the night and some last shots were taken inside. It was quite sad
to say goodbye to Brian and the crew. They had all been so friendly
and it was very interesting to see just how much work was involved
in what will probably only last for 5 minutes when it is shown on
T.V. As it will only be shown in Scotland the director said she
would send us a Video of it.
Thursday July 10th
Today we set off for Edinburgh for real but we let Cliff and Robin
go on ahead as I wanted to do a quick sketch of the wheel. The ride
was really great with superb and varied scenery all the way. The
only bad part was a long tunnel not far from Falkirk which was unlit
and in which we met two cyclists coming the other way. The path
in the tunnel was very uneven and water was dripping from the roof
and it really was pitch black. There was a good rail at the side
but even so it was very scary and it was a great relief into get
to the daylight again. We found an excellent pub for our lunch stop
and were soon wending our way through the outskirts of Edinburgh.
A lot of work has been done on the canal here and it looked very
smart. Charles was really pleased to see someone planting water
plants along the edges. There is still some work going on at the
actual end of the canal and here we got a bit lost. However a quick
check with a lorry driver set us on our way again and the last part
of the ride took us through a park called The Meadows. We soon arrived
at the B&B and Cliff and Robin were already there wondering
where we had got to as they had seen us not far behind just before
lunch.
To end our holiday we spent a full day in Edinburgh and after a
visit to the botanical gardens we met a young friend who is now
the Director of Music at St Mary's Cathedral where he showed us
round and gave us a quick burst on the organ. After sharing lunch
with him we went to the Museum of Scotland and saw a special exhibition
called the Forbidden City, of paintings and costumes fi·om
China. The whole week was really enjoyable and I would really recommend
the ride to all.
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CYCLE
THE MILLENIUM WAY
14th - 21st June 2004.
John Spurgeon
DAY
1 Arrived at Rennie Mackintosh Hotel in the centre of Glasgow
early afternoon where I met Douglas and received the bike. Hotel
is extremely convenient - only 1 minute's ride from Sauchiehall
Street - and clean and comfortable. Much Rennie-Mackintosh style
to the décor. Used the rest of the day to cycle to People's
Palace and look round, doing a loop south of the river to return.
- 8 miles.
DAY
2 Forecast was poor but in fact the weather improved. Cycled
along Great Western Road as far as the River Kelvin where I took
the very attractive wooded cycle path north along the bottom of
the valley as far as the canal. Grand bridges crossed. Scotland
seems to have a more enlightened view of mixing cycles and pedestrians
and it's necessary to ride carefully round the tight bends. Along
the Forth and Clyde Canal westbound much of west Glasgow can be
seen. Finished just past Bowling Basin because I had hoped there
would be a café there. Unprepared to use a Costa Coffee sort
of place at the information/services at Milton, I returned along
the canal then the railway path alongside the Clyde, which had excellent
unrestored remains of the pre-'70s Glasgow as it sailed generally
at viaduct level to Bells Bridge. Crossed bridge and past typical
monolithic 'new image' buildings onto the Sustrans route to Pollock
House. Good afternoon snack in sunshine (the last!). Returned via
streets through better part of Glasgow to the 'Greek Thompson' Holmwood
House and then past some strikingly photogenic rose-coloured tenements
and home straight through the bus lanes. - 39 miles.
DAY
3 This time the forecast was correct - drizzle for much of the
morning. Still was able to appreciate the views from the elevated
canal and east onto Falkirk along the canal. I gave Kirkintilloch
a bit of a miss in the rain but found the hills to the centre of
Kilsyth well worth it for the recommended baker's. The Falkirk Wheel
suddenly appears round a bend and is a large-scale tourist destination,
ideal for food as well as all other comforts. The boat rides are
for those with a head for heights and plenty of time. I pressed
ahead up the steep path to the tunnel, on to the north portal of
the Falkirk tunnel where I diverted to Callender House. This is
a local authority attempt to focus its artistic and historic services
into a house it inherited and is quite well acclaimed. Going through
the streets of the town to Arbutnot House shows how much it is also
trying to shed the coal and iron/steel image. (Arbutnot House was
the owner's house of a nearby ironworks). - 37 miles.
DAY
4 Cycled through the old settlements north of Falkirk which
I had read about the night before, and Carron Shore, where iron
tramways reached the tidal river. Here a river-side path went to
the main Stirling road. I was amused that, opposite a sewage works
outfall someone had chosen to locate a seat. The road to Stirling
was rather tedious and was hardly justified by a visit to the 'Pineapple'.
I was very impressed with Stirling and how it managed to keep a
vibrant old town locked onto a modern enormous covered shopping
mall. Took the return by train - nice old fashioned station with
signals - (no problem with the bike) and did some Falkirk trails
in the (rather wet!) evening. - 28 miles.
DAY
5 Onwards on the Union Canal to Edinburgh. Showery weather meant
I had to spend some time under trees and bridges but made good progress.
The particular day of the week meant that I would not divert to
the Bo'ness railway and clay mine but instead went to Hopetoun House.
Interesting to a point but I was particularly fascinated by the
rooftop 'walk' where you stood among the chimney's and looked towards
the Forth Bridges. A spot of lunch here to compensate for the general
lack of cafes on the canal. Entered Edinburgh along quite interesting
townscape including a modern high rise estate, aqueducts, student
land and finally the path petered out against a developer's fence
where I had to hoist the bike up steps. I was just in time to visit
the cathedral for evensong and then, a little late, went through
the streets busy with buses to Brothaigh House, 2 miles out on the
road to the south. - 43 miles.
DAY
6 Shared the house with a schoolgirl netball team! Today was
Scotland at its coldest and dampest and my plans were abandoned.
Leaving the bike at home I used the acclaimed bus system which was
very impressive - not least because a stop was just outside the
house, but they also ran to town every minute or so and a whole
days' travel for £2. Visited HMY Britannia which is moored
to a brand new multi-level shopping centre. Highly recommended as
is the Ocean Bar for food. Stopping off at the town centre I took
the bus in the opposite direction for the Scottish Mining Museum
at Newtongrange - only to find its last tour was 10 mins ago. I
left (see Day 8). The rather disappointing and very cold walking
tour (Ghouls and Ghosts) saw me using the bike in the evening, via
the interesting Innocents Tunnel - an old goods branch that burrowed
under a corner of Arthur's Seat and is now converted for cycle use.
- 7 miles.
DAY
7 Cycled to the cathedral for morning service and then on via
old railway paths to pick up NCR1 to the Forth Bridge. The sign
for the bridge took me onto another path which descended to Queensferry
centre but there the signs stopped. A reasonable amount of sense
(the road bridge towered above me) enabled me to get onto the cycle
track and over the bridge to North Queensferry ( and the queue of
traffic which I could avoid). Returned via a hotel (for lunch) to
the foot of the railway bridge to appreciate its scale and onwards
via a hilly road to Inverkeithing. The afternoon siesta on the railways
meant no trains back to Edinburgh for nearly an hour so I returned
to North Q station and sat in the sun (yes!) until it arrived 15
mins late. Completed my exploration of Edinburgh by alighting at
Haymarket and returning via Granton, Newhaven and Leith using a
mixture of paths and roads, and having a fish and chip supper at
Portobello. - 34 miles.
DAY
8 A tight schedule to catch a bus out to the Mining Museum where
word had got round and I was given personal attention (and a guide).
The museum is in fact worth well over 3 hours visit and is fascinating,
not least because some of it is entirely unrestored. The buses worked
well to the airport (the guest house allowed me to collect luggage
on the way back) and it was only there that the problems began…
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ON
THE EDGE OF THE SEA
5th
- 19th June 2002
Jean
& Charles Hamilton |
6th-20th May 2005
Mr & Mrs Earwicker Tour |
15th-29th
August 2005
DonMacKenzie,Canada Tour
|
5th
- 19th June 2002
Jean
& Charles Hamilton
Wednesday
June 5th - Home to Oban.
We left home early to catch the 7.20. train from Stockport. It was
running 10 minutes late and so on arrival at Preston we were lucky
to catch the Glasgow train havingjust two minutes to change platforms.Trhe
train was a new Virgin Voyager and was very comfortable.
We had on hour in Glasgow, enough time for soup and a cake in the
caf~ near Queen Street station. The weather was really great as
we made our way towards Loch Lomond and as the train was early the
driver slowed down to give us all a better view of the Loch.We have
never travelled by train between Dalmally and Oban before and the
views were quite stunning. At Connel Ferry a piper was playing on
the platform as he waited to greet friends who got off the train.
Douglas Crighton and his wife from Scottish Cycling Holidays soon
arrived at the B&B to meet us and bring our bikes, both nearly
brand new. Charles was thrilled that his was a Claude Butler. After
a short stroll around the town we found an excellent restaurant
for an evening meal.
Thursday
June 6th - Oban to Castlebay Barra.
After breakfast it took a while to set the bikes up and master the
gear changes. Charles decided he needed a new pair of shoes and
I bought some travel pills just in case. We then cycled a few miles
down the coast road, the sky was blue and the sea calm and Oban
looked at its best. We lunched at the same restaurant as last night
and then sat in a park overlooking the harbour where I did a quick
sketch. Charles by this time discovered he had already managed to
lose the key to the bike padlock so it was just as well that he
had given me the spare for safe keeping.
We waited some time to board the ferry and just as we were told
to go down the ramp Douglas arrived to take a photo so we managed
to hold up the waiting cars. We went up to stand on the deck as
the ferry left and were surprised that Douglas and his wife were
still there waving us off on our adventure.
The ferry trip was quite superb, the sun shone, the sea was calm
and we saw lots of dolphins and sea birds. One lady even saw a whale!
There was a group of Americans on board heading for a Clan Ranald
gathering and it was good to talk to them. The ferry took 5 hours
to reach Barra, sailing first between Mull and Ardnamurchan and
then out into the open sea. As we drew near to Castlebay it looked
very bleak and almost Icelandic quite unlike Orkney where we were
last year. There was a photo of our hostess with Prince Charles
on display at the B&B as he had toured the house a few years
ago when on a visit to the Island.
pipe repaired and after letting the one car on the ferry off,we
were able to board for the 50min journey to Eriskay.
Fortunately we had the wind behind us as in all we cycled over 40
miles. We stopped for lunch at the Kildonan Museum where the cafe
was full of men in kilts. Some were from tile Territorial Army Cadets
and the rest were the Americans of the Clan Ranold whom we met earlier
on the ferry from Oban.
After we left the museum, we stopped to talk to a local man who
was just taking a rest from his turf cutting. It was interesting
to see that this is still going on in the islands. He had quite
a lot to say to us but much of it I couldn't make head or tail of
as he had such a broad accent. Our B&B stop was in Liniclate
in a very nice bungalow.
Sunday
June 9th. - Liniclate to Berneray.
Today being Sunday we knew that all the shops would be shut so armed
with clootie dumpling and bananas purchased yesterday we set off
on our days journey. We decided not to go via Balivanich and took
the shorter route north to North Uist. Then we went west around
the coast
and visited the R.S.P.B, nature reserve at Balranald. As it was
a rather wet and windy day it was lovely to able to eat our lunch
in the deserted visitor centre which also had excellent loos. The
road then turned east into the wind and up what seemed like a never
ending hill, I found it very hard going. Even after the hill was
conquered the ride over the causeway to Berneray was much longer
than I expected so that when we finally arrived at the B&B I
was really exhausted. However we had a wonderful welcome there even
being greeted with a big hug from Mary our hostess. She was so kind
and soon settled us in her kitchen with cups of tea and home made
cakes. The captain of the Macbrayne ferry was also staying there.
We will be travelling on his boat tomorrow.
After an excellent meal provided by Mary we were amazed when she
offered to let us take her car and drive round the island. We thanked
her very much but took a short walk instead and then spent some
more time chatting with her in the kitchen. She has three beautiful
cats and a cute curly little white dog. She told us that Prince
Charles often stays in the house next door when he wants some peace
and quiet. We all got on so well together it was shame that we only
had one night with her.
Monday June 10th. - Berneray to Tarbert.
It was quite sad to leave our wonderful hostess but we had to catch
the ferry for Leverburgh on Harris. The two young American lads
were on the same ferry. They had had a good trip up from Barra managing
to hitch lifts very easily.
Harris is very different to the Uists, very hilly in the centre
and very rocky. We took the road along the west coast where we had
wonderful views of the wide sandy bays. There was no wind and the
sun was out at times and the clouds looked lovely. We called in
at the Seallam visitor centre where there was a history and geology
exhibition, which were both excellent. Charles spent some time on
the computer, which had a very good programme on bird identifrlcation
showing birds in flight as well as in close up.
After the easy ride along the coast the road swung to the east and
we had a really long ascent. Every time we thought we had reached
the top there was another climb around the corner. We stopped for
a rest, near the summit and saw a lot of peat stacks drying near
the road. At last we were on the descent into Tarbert and soon found
our B&B. It was set on the hillside above the small harbour
and once more we had wonderful views .
In the evening after another good meal we sat in the sun lounge
talking with the other guests, or rather talking to one of them
as the lady didn't give her husband or son a chance to get in on
the conversation and they eventually left. By the time they got
back the sun was beginning to
set and it looked as if there was going to be a really good sunset.
They very kindly invited us to go with them in their car to a place
where we got the best view and we took several photos of the sun
setting behind the mountains .
Tuesday June 11th. - A rest day in Tarbert.
Today was a rest day so armed with the bus times given to us by
the chap at the Seallam Centre we set off for the Callanish Stones
and Stornoway. The road was very hilly and the views from the bus
great. We could never have got there on our bikes. The first bus
met another coming from the opposite direction at the turn off for
the Stones with perfect timing, so we soon hopped off one on to
the other. There was only one other passenger on the second bus,
a rather inebriated Scotsman with a stammer! Needless to say I couldn't
understand a word he said but Charles managed to make sense of most
of it and they ended up discussing which type of moth had caused
the fir trees to die.
The Callanish Stones are quite magnifulcent as were the views around
them. The blue skies with patches of cloud added to the effect and
I took loads ofphotos. After lunch at the visitor cenhre I sat and
sketched the Stones and then it was time to catch the bus on to
Stornoway. As soon as we arrived we went to Boots as Charles had
a dreadful cough and who should tap me on the shoulder but Mary
fi-om Berneray! I don't know who was more surprised Mary or me.
She had come with a fi-iend to do some shopping. First they would
have taken the ferry to Leverburgh and then driven all the way to
Tarbert and then Stornoway.( 57 miles ) It was lovely to see her
again and I really must write to her when we get home.
The bus we got back to Tarbert was the school bus and the children
were all very well behaved. We were entertained on the journey with
Scottish music provided by a tape from a young Downes Syndrom lad
who travels on this bus to and from school every day and always
likes to sit in the same front seat.
After our evening meal our fellow guests again took us out in their
car this time to visit the Island of Scalpay. It is only a small
island but there were a lot of houses spread out along a real switchback
of a road. Tomorrows ferry ride will take us past this island on
our way to Uig on the Isle of Skye.
Wednesday
June 12th. - Tarbert to Portree.
We had an early start today to catch the 7.30. ferry to Uig. When
we reached there the weather wasn't too bad but it soon deteriorated.
The wind was against us, and the rain got heavier and heavier. The
ride was only 17miles but it felt like a lot more and even the descent
into Portree
was no fun against the wind and rain. When we arrived at about midday
I was totally exhausted. Luckily Mrs Morrison was in at the B&B.
and she gave us some rolls cheese and jam together with cups of
hot tea. After we had eaten I was so tired I had to have a half
hour nap which is most unlike me, h stopped raining later in the
afternoon as we walked around the town, which is very picturesque.
In the evening we ate at a very posh seafood restaurant where we
had trout, and while we were there many people were turned away
as it was full. Thursday June 13th. Portree to Broadford.
We had a really enjoyable ride today, with no rain only a light
wind and even some sunshine. We had some wonderful views of The
Cuillin Mountains as we cycled along and also from the hotel where
we stopped for a morning cuppa. As we left the hotel about six vintage
Jaguar sports
cars and a Triumph drove up and parked in a lay by. They were all
left hand drive and the occupants seemed to be German and were not
at all friendly. One driver had an old fashioned leather helmet
on.
As it was such a nice day we took the slightly longer route around
the coast near the golf course. It was away from all the traffic
and we met several other cyclists and walkers. One couple told us
there were otters in the area but of course we didn't see any. However
there were a few midges and we shared out our insect repellent with
the people we met.
Broadford is an attractive little village and some of the coach
tours stop there for the night. As we walked past the church we
heard a choir singing. It turned out it was the church choir practising
for a Songs of Praise Concert on Sunday evening and our hostess
was one of the singers. It's a pity we won't be here then to hear
them properly.
Friday
June 14th. - Broadford to Armadale.
Thankfully we only bad 16 miles to ride today as it poured with
rain all day. Before we left Broadford we called in at the Serpentarium,
which is only small but very well set up. They look after snakes
lizards iguanas lizards and tortoises, which have been discovered
by customs as illegal imports, and also breed a lot of snakes. Charles
was thrilled to be able to hold a Royal Python, and I did just manage
to touch it.
Apart from a stop to eat our bananas we carried straight no to our
B&B. in Armadale arriving almost soaked to the skin at 1.00.
My waterproof had let in a lot of rain and we wondered if we would
be able to venture out again. Very kindly the owners mother in law
who was staying
there lent me her waterproof and we walked down to the pier where
I was able to buy a new one. There was a very good knitwear shop
nearby and a super pottery shop. I had a long talk with the owner
a young Australian girl now married and settled on Skye. She has
travelled and studied ceramics all over the world including in Japan
and opened the shop here just a year ago. It is a most wonderful
spot over looking the bay and the way the shop was set up was most
attractive with chunky tables and shelving made by her husband from
local timber. It was a great end to a rather miserable day.
Saturday June 15th. A rest day at Armadale.
We spent the morning at Armadale Castle with Linda Macdonald a fellow
guest at our B.&B. She had been with the Clan group from the
U.S.A. we had met earlier. We were able to share our knowledge or
wild flowers with her and she in turn told us about the Clan gathering.
The museum and Clan Macdonald visitor centre in the castle grounds
is brand new and out side is a lovely sculpture of The Raven On
the Rock which had been paid for by the American Macdonalds and
had been dedicated by them on their tour. There is also a library
where people can try to trace their ancestors and this is where
we left Linda to try and trace her family tree. Sadly she was unable
to find out any thing as she did not have enough information to
go on.
We took a walk in the gardens and Charles was delighted to find
several Twayblade Orchids amongst the grasses and wild flowers.
After lunch in the castle restaurant we decided to ride up to the
Airde of Sleat but we only got half way when the rain returned and
we gave up. Then once more the weather changed and the sun came
out so leaving Charles to watch the football on the tele I walked
down to the harbour. On the way I collected lots of lovely lichen
which had fallen off the trees and took it to the potter to add
to her displays.
We went to the local hotel for our evening meal where we met up
again with Linda. I must say all the meals we have had on this holiday
have been excellent with a lot of local produce being used.
Sunday
June 16th. - Armadale to Mallaig and Fort William.
We decided to catch the 10. 50. ferry and so were able to spend
some time in Mallaig. There was not a lot to see but we took a short
ride along the coast and had a good fish and chip lunch before catching
our train to Fort William. We travelled with a very nice young couple
who had been camping and cycling on the islands. They were both
ski instructors in France during the winter, she was Austrian and
he was Scottish. They were a great help with the bikes, which are
stacked vertically on the train.
Our B&B. in Fort William was high on the hill behind the town
and once more we had wonderful views. Douglas and his wife arrived
to collect the bikes and find out how we had gone on. I told him
that he was way out with his mileages and that we reckoned we had
cycled over 200 miles instead of his 160. As he left he asked us
if we would like to join him in three weeks time riding from Glasgow
to Edinburgh as a T.V. company would be filming for some holiday
programme. We said yes we would love to- we must be mad!
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ON THE EDGE OF THE SEA CUSTOMISED TOUR
Mr & Mrs Earwicker 6th-20th May 2005
 Day 1 Friday 6th May
Walked to Beeston Station – about 1 hour carrying rucksacks and haversacks. We’ve taken more than we need with us as usual! Via Derby and Edinburgh to Glasgow. Here we had an hour to spare and found a left luggage facility, so we dumped our bags and explored Glasgow as well as buying some fruit salads (choose your own) and filled bagettes. Then onto the Oban train, which was full of people off to the Isle of Mull for a weekend rugby competition and a Dutch party en route to Iona. Very noisy, the Tennants flowed freely, but we had booked seats so all well. It is a wonderful journey past lochs, including Loch Lomond and suberb mountain scenery. Arrived in Oban 9.20pm, found our B and B easily 10 minutes walk from the station. Very friendly, our first experience of having to order breakfast the previous night from a tick-list.
Day 2 Saturday 7th May 8.22 miles 250m ascent
The ferry was not until 3.30pm and we had to be back at the B and B for 12.30pm to meet Douglas Crichton and collect our bikes. So plenty of time to explore Oban, watch the Waverley arrive and depart on a day-trip to Rum and realise how cold it was. Also we discovered that we had forgotten to bring hats to keep our heads warm. So off on a hat-hunt: Steve found a £3 ‘woolly hat’ and Helen ended up with a £30 Berghaus special! Late elevenses in a very nice delicatessen and bought our picnic for the following day in case everything closed on Sunday – Organic Wheatfree Hebridean Oatcakes from Benbecula and Isle of Mull cheddar, plus dried figs and apricots from the COOP. 
Back to the B and B to meet Douglas – excellent new bikes with panniers (one set as we’d brought one set of our own), repair kits etc and helmets. Douglas turned out to be a semi-retired dentist – what a fun second career! Decided we could manage to walk to the ferry with our luggage, managed it quite easily. We’d bought our Hopscotch tickets in the morning, so boarding was easy and we were soon on deck to watch as we departed. The trip out through the Sound of Mull was cold but lovely scenery so we stayed outside except when it rained, then decided to eat. Sadly it was a bit rougher on the more open sea, so Steve enjoyed his supper more than Helen, but it was OK. Calmed down as we neared the Outer Hebrides and we approached Barra in late evening sunshine. Were rather shocked at one point when we were called on the Tannoy to the Purser’s Desk, but it was to tell us how to find the person collecting our luggage on our arrival – from the next B and B, Airds Guesthouse. We duly found him in the white van with luggage carrier on top as described to us and he advised us very firmly to cycle the longer route round the west side of the island rather than over the hill out of Castlebay. We discovered the next day what good advice this was! But it turned out even better because as we arrived in North Bay, the roads were suddenly very wet – we had missed the heaviest shower of the day!
Airds Guesthouse was lovely – a purpose-built B and B suitable for people with disabilities, on a high stretch of road out of North Bay (aird is Gaelic for high place) – beautiful wooden floors, a spacious bedroom and
breakfast room overlooking the sea loch – and a warm welcome. We asked where to put our bikes – we hadn’t yet learnt that nobody worries about locking things up in the Hebrides!
Day 3 Sunday 8th May 38.6miles 1447m ascent including walk up Heaval
When we arrived last night we went into the tourist office, which is open for an hour after the ferry arrives, to try to get a leaflet about Vatersay Heritage Walk, which sounded interesting. They had none, but instead suggested a booklet of walks in the Outer Hebrides which proved invaluable throughout the holiday. We had agreed that we wanted to go to Vatersay – a separate island south of Barra, now connected to it by causeway. But we also wanted to explore the northern part of Barra, particularly to see the airport on the beach. So we set off north – and realised how strong the northerly wind was! We went to the ferry terminal so that we would know how long to leave for our trip there the next morning. The roads have been partly rebuilt/newly built for the new ferry terminal and are excellent quality though mainly single track still. We went back to the ‘main road’ to the airport, which was closed on Sunday, though there were cockle pickers out on the beach! We cycled past Compton McKenzie’s house (where he wrote ‘Whisky Galore) and the school. 
Onward to the end of the road, via a stop at a beach on the Atlantic coast – the peninsula is very narrow at that point. At the end we parked the bikes and walked the last ½ mile to the northernmost point. From here we could see our next day’s destination – Eriskay and South Uist. We returned with the wind behind us, and decided to sample the local (new) hotel – Heatherbank for some warming soup, missing a shower while we were inside! Then down the east coast road toward Castlebay. They were right about the hill, it was bad enough from the north and worse from the south! More or less at the top of the road we parked our bikes and set off to climb Heaval, the highest hill on Barra at 383m. A steep climb up was rewarded by wonderful views from the rocky top.
Back down to the bikes and on southward through Castlebay and over the pass down to the causeway to Vatersay, the island to the south of Barra. We had hoped to do the ‘Heritage Walk’ here, but time and energy were running out so we contented ourselves with cycling to the end of the road before returning to North Bay via the west coast.
 Day 4 Monday 9th May 22.4 miles, 404m of ascent (not including walk)
Off to catch the 9.30 ferry to Eriskay. It was cold and damp but we stayed on deck for the short trip. The ferry was shared by the cinema lorry which we had seen in Castlebay and which followed us all the way and was at Mallaig when we arrived there on our way home. It opens out to seat 80 and was showing 3 films in each location.
We cycled up the new road to Am Baile, the village on Eriskay. The ferry has only gone directly to Eriskay since the causeway was built and the road was built to link with it. We left our bikes in the car park of the Am Politician pub, telling the owner as he arrived that we’d be back for soup. We set of on a walk covering quite a bit of Eriskay, including the beach where Bonnie Prince Charlie landed, and the old harbour. It was rather cold and drizzly and we curtailed the walk where it appeared to be going a long way over wild moorland, even so we only got back just in time for our pub lunch. At 3pm we left to cycle over the causeway and realised just how strong the wind was.
We had thought of going to Lochboisdale on the way, but sensibly abandoned that idea as we struggled against the force 6 northerly wind on a fairly busy single track A road.It was with great relief that we reached our destination at the Stonybridge crossroads. They were welcoming and provided us with a simple meal in a room warmed by a peat fire. They suggested a destination for an evening stroll, from where Steve tried to photograph the sunset. The standing stone was better than the sunset!
Day 5 Tuesday 10th May 47.4 miles 442m of ascent
 Thankfully the wind had dropped and the sun shone as we cycled down to the coast and north to the picturesque village of Howmore which we only realised was that long after we’d left it. The name on the map was Tobha Mor!! We saw our first black house which is now a basic hostel.
Then north a short way on the A road until the turn for the Loch Druidibeg Nature Reserve. This turned out to be a beautiful area and we cycled right through it and across to the East coast of South Uist at Loch Sgioport, the end of the road. We found ourselves descending to a harbour down a rough track and had a late coffee break in this peaceful and beautiful spot. There were only half a dozen cars on the road the whole way.
Back to the main road we continued north past Loch Bi and over the causeway to Benbecula. Left off the main road we followed the smaller road west round past Lionacleit community school (where our land-lady of the previous night works in the kitchen) It was well past lunchtime and as soon as possible we turned off to find a picnic spot overlooking the beach. We returned to the road via another track cutting off a corner just in time to avoid the resurfacing vehicles chasing us from behind for which the road was now closed! It would have been a long detour. Just before the air-force base at Ballyvanich we stopped to admire the view out west, thinking we were seeing St Kilda (as everyone kept telling us we should). It did seem a bit near and flat and we realised later we were looking at the Monarch Islands only 5 rather than 60 miles away! We cycled back to the main road and then turned right to the north-east coast of Benbecula where our walks book recommended a short walk to see the seal colony at Flodday. There were quite a lot of seals, though not very close.  The causeway from Benbecula to North Uist is split into two where it crosses the island of Grimsay at its western end. In case we hadn’t had enough exercise we decided to detour round the island: it was a pretty place with a friendly, lived-in feel and at the far end was a new harbour built in 2000 for shell-fishing – the shell-fish are mainly exported to Spain!!!
By this time we were very pleased to cycle the last couple of miles to the Temple View Hotel at Cairinish. Very comfortable rooms, but we were amused by their attempts to set themselves up as a posh restaurant with French menu (which meant Helen got entirely the wrong meal at the first attempt!) and their over-anxiety to please. They were pretty puzzled by us and thought us mad to even dream of cycling such distances!
Day 6 Wednesday 11th May 45.3 miles 660m of ascent
Lots more detours! We started with a look at the ‘temples’ that gave the Hotel its name – famous centres of learning in their time apparently. Then after a couple of miles northwards, still against quite a strong wind,we turned right and then off on a tiny road along the south of Loch Euphort to the end of the road. Pretty and very quiet. Back on the road we turned right  (not the way we were going) to a very well preserved cairn, Barpa Langass. Our walk book told us to go inside – we didn’t read the guidebook telling us it was dangerous to do so until afterwards!
It made an excellent coffee spot, sitting on, not in the cairn, though somewhat exposed! We finally returned to the turn where we had left our route and set off on the real journey at about 1pm! Despite the wind we reached our next stop, Balranald nature reserve and sat on the dunes for a belated lunch, before a walk round the reserve. The last part of the journey was very pretty, and much easier cycling as we turned to head east along the north of North Uist with the wind no longer against us. The road north towards Berneray was wild and lovely and once over the causeway it was only a mile or so to Burnside Croft and a very warm welcome from Gloria and Don-Alick. After a wonderful meal shared with a Canadian couple and the gas-man from Inverness who was there for a week to sort out the island’s boilers (!) we were encouraged to go for a walk. They are stalwarts of the Berneray Historical Society and Gloria gave us a booklet with a walk around lots of points of interest. We walked across the machair to the dunes and down onto the 3 mile sandy beach, and left around the headland. We photographed the sunset and then got somewhat muddled over the route back: we eventually arrived back at 10.45pm!
 Day 7 Thursday 12th May
Berneray was too beautiful to leave and the weather was glorious. We had thought of exploring the east side of North Uist and the Loch Maddy area, but the bicycles needed a rest day! So we set of on the Berneray historical society walk, including all three hills, the Seal Bay, the Blackhouse hostel and more-or-less the whole coast-line. We returned for tea: it should have been just us, but with typical island hospitality, Gloria had agreed to take in a stranded honeymoon couple who had missed the last ferry back to Harris.  We are sure she didn’t charge them! Afterwards we completed our walk round the island, roughly reversing the previous night’s route and enjoying a beautiful sunset. Don-Alick is a third generation gaelic speaking crofter and Gloria an Australian who came to nurse in the islands for 3 months and stayed for 30 years, working on the district and eventually in management. They are interested in everything, and want us to take the ceilidh band to Berneray Festival! We’d go back to Berneray given any opportunity.
Day 8 Friday 13th May 30.5 miles, 908m of ascent
 Had a lazy breakfast chatting with Gloria. Don-Alick took our luggage to the ferry and we cycled the mile or so for the 10.40 crossing from the ferry port by the causeway. It was a lovely day and we were able to stay on deck for the 1 hour journey to Leverburgh on the south coast of Harris. Part of it was like a slalom course between islands and islets! We had decided to take the west coast route as the east coast (known as the ‘Golden Road’ because of the cost of building it!) is very up and down and in and out of all the inlets and bays. However on the ferry a very knowledgeable lady had told us we really should go to Rodel church as well as various other famous sites. We took her advice and after waiting for the bus to put our luggage on and having a coffee we turned right out of Leverburgh up over the hill to the south-east corner of Harris. The countryside was very different, more like the Peak District, with heather-clad rocky hillsides. The church is worth seeing though it was only used as such for about a hundred years in about the sixteenth century and was obviously built as a lookout/fortification as well as a church. Inside among others is a memorial to a Macleod chief, who had built the church and the memorial.
Back past Leverburgh and we were looking for a lunch spot. We found it in the McGillivray Centre, built to honour a celebrated naturalist. There are some lovely photographs etc inside, but the building itself is beautifully done and harmonises well with its surroundings. And they provide loos and picnic tables – and blue sky and sunshine!
After lunch we abandoned the bikes at the end of the road and followed part of another walk from our booklet (avoiding the stiff climb up!) round the south of the peninsula to a ruined chapel, again partly fortification. The beaches and the colours of the sea were spectacular. Back to the bikes we headed on up the coast. There were many lovely views and though we were concerned about the time we had a quick coffee sitting on a bench before heading inland along the south side of a long estuary and then upwards for a long way to the watershed and the run down into Tarbert with different views of rocky inlets and a very indented coastline replacing the long beaches of the west. Tarbert is on a very narrow isthmus with perhaps only a mile or so between the Atlantic and The Minch. As we came down the hill we were guessing which of the houses on the other side of Tarbert East Bays was our B and B. Tarbert is smaller than I’d expected and we were soon out the other side and found Tigh-Na-Mara. There was little choice of eating places but one with the unlikely name of the Tarbert Motel was recommended in our good eating places leaflet (provided by Scottish Cycling Holidays along with lots of other useful literature). So we headed off there as soon as we could, and found plenty of interesting food and friendly young waitresses glad of someone to serve. We ate there all three nights. We were the only guests at the B and B, so we sat in the lounge after dinner and ate the freshly baked cake provided by our landlady as pudding.
 Day 9 Saturday 14th May 15.9 miles, 1152m of ascent
Still only half way through our holiday. Helen had been advised by a fellow guest on the Saga weekend in Bromsgrove to do a walk from Tarbert to a village named Reinigeadal. It was also mentioned in the guide-book and there was a leaflet about it in the B and B. The village first had a road built to it in 1989. Before that it was only accessible by boat or a 5 mile walk – a long way to go to school or the doctor. And it was no easy walk,though a very beautiful one with a number of climbs from sea-level over a ridge and down to the next inlet. We set off east from Tarbert on the Scalpay road and quickly realised that the sun had real warmth in it, so we removed our trouser legs and wore shorts all day – the only day we did so on the holiday. After crossing the Lacasdal lochs we left the road on a good path up the hill, catching a glimpse of the ferry to Uig as we looked back. The first part was not too steep but when we reached the sea on the other side of the peninsula some paths zigzagged up and down. Nearer Reinigeadal there had been a settlement and we saw ruins of both houses and the lazybeds used to cultivate the barren land with heaps of thin soil heaped into ridges and fertilised with seaweed. The present day village has only a few houses and a hostel but we found a lovely rocky picnic spot. We decided to do the whole route rather than retracing our steps, so walked up the road to Loch Maraig whence tomorrow’s Stornoway road was easily visible above us. We turned left and headed back to join the ‘old (est?) Stornoway road and so back along the Lascadal lochs to the modern road. By the time we reached Tarbert we were very cold but too tired to stop and put more clothes on. But it was an excellent walk.
Day 10 Sunday 15th May 59.1 miles 1398m of ascent
 Dull today and quite a bit of light rain on and off. We set off in the dry on the new(est) Tarbert to Stornoway road. This was our longest day – 37 miles – so we were keen to get going and do a fair bit of the journey by lunchtime. Also we were carrying enough luggage for the 2 nights in Stornoway: everything stops on Sunday – no public transport at all, so it was DIY! So our panniers were fuller than usual. I had not realised what a narrow isthmus it is at Tarbert – within a mile or so we were cycling along the north shore of Tarbert West Bays – ie the Atlantic!. It was pretty along there but within 3 miles we reached the turn inland. After a pause to read the information boards (there are lots of these and they are very good) we set off up the quite steep hill and over the moorland. There were road-works narrowing much of the road as they are changing the whole road gradually to 2 lanes – often by building a new road alongside the present one. This is obiously a process that has been repeated many times over the years and remnants of previous roads are scattered on either side of the present one. They came in very useful for picnic stops, photography points, loo stops etc! We passed above the inlet, Loch Maraig along which we had walked yesterday and stopped shortly afterwards for coffee before a long steep descent with zigzags to Loch Seaforth.  Further on there were lovely stretches through real forest and then the most northerly arm of Loch Seaforth which extends from Reinigeadal about halfway to Stornoway! Much of the route was through quite wild countryside, though we passed through a long village Baile Annein, as well as a loo and shower block in the middle of nowhere and several large churches with huge full car-parks late on Sunday morning. It was hard to find a lunch spot as the weather was not wonderful and there were a lot of cars on the road as the church services finished. We eventually sat on some rocks and enjoyed a very nice picnic only about 6 miles from Stornoway. It was too early to arrive at our B and B on a Sunday afternoon, so after a quick look at the centre of Stornoway, realising we were in a place large enough to have roundabouts and traffic lights and even a pedestrian street, we cycled out past the airport to the Eye Peninsula. This is still a peninsula rather than an island because of the road on the narrow isthmus that joins it to the mainland. Towards to end of the causeway is another memorial to the people who fought bravely for the right to own and work the land during the clearances in the 19th century. We’d seen one the other side of Stornoway. We continued to the lighthouse at Tumpan Head where we found a nice picnic table for tea and lovely views over the Minch. By this time we were very glad to turn back towards Stornoway and find our next hosts. We left our bikes there and after changing walked into the town to find a meal. The choice on a Sunday evening was a café and the Indian, settling for the latter turned out to be an excellent choice and we enjoyed an excellent meal! Stornoway is strongly linked with herring fishing and has two lovely statues commemorating the fisher-women, who travelled all over the United Kingdom to do their work.
 Day 11 Monday 15th May 47.3 miles, 822m of ascent
Woke to very strong wind again. Luckily we had already decided that we could not get to the Butt of Ness and wanted to see the standing stones at Calanais and the Blackhouse Village museum. We had also spotted a road across the centre of Lewis, which turned out to be made for cyclists. It is signed out of Stornoway only to the Household Waste Centre, though it is an A-road! The Pentland Road runs across wild moorland and as it is single track few cars bother to use it. It is fairly level so we made reasonable progress despite the wind and arrived at the visitor centre at Calanais for a late coffee – very welcome warmth and cake! I put leggings on again beneath my trousers before we ventured out to look at the stones, which are quite spectacular, in a rough cross shape with an oval running through it. We also watched a video and saw an exhibition, but in the end nobody really knows why they were there….. The stones  themselves are beautiful with patterns of different coloured rock running through them. Not far away are two other groups of standing stones which we went to after a lovely lunch of soup and home-made bread in the visitor centre. The gate to one group was cleverly designed and worth a photograph before we set off north up the coast to our next destination, the Broch at Dun Corloway. The visitor centre here, another lovely stone building blending into the hillside, was sadly not open, but the Broch dates back about 2000 years and the lower part is well-preserved with its double walls with a staircase between. A short distance further up the coast after waiting for the sheep to pass we headed off the main road to the Gearrannan Blackhouse Village. Several blackhouses have been restored, some as self-catering cottages or hostels, others as part of a museum. The elderly inhabitants occupied them until 1989.  They are fascinating reminders of life as it was lived in the islands until not that long ago. There was much we would have liked to see further north, but it was already late as we rejoined the Pentland Road and headed back to Stornoway.
This time the wind was behind us and the journey back took half the time we had expected. We were glad to arrive back and walk into Stornoway again, this time to an excellent meal in the Boatshed Restaurant.
Day 12 Tuesday 16th May 50.1 miles 1783m of ascent
This was a return journey, the only one on our trip, so we knew the route. The road was busier than on Sunday, but not too bad and we pushed ourselves to keep going with only a brief coffee break to climb the long hill from Loch Seaforth before we stopped for lunch. We were very lucky and missed most of a very heavy shower over to the west as we climbed the hill, and were able to have our picnic at the top on another section of ‘old’ road. 
The weather treated us very kindly and the views were better than on the journey north. We reached Tarbert by 3.30 or so and treated ourselves to tea in the First Fruits Tearoom before stopping at the B and B to drop of most of our luggage. The cinema lorry was preparing for its latest showing! Steve was keen to go to island of Scalpay, now joined to the north side of East Tarbert Bays by a bridge. It was fun to cycle out and there were wonderful views over the area we had walked 3 days earlier, but the road was quite a switchback and I did wonder if I would make it back. However I did and it was worth it for the views and to see Scalpay village and harbour.
Day 13 Wednesday 18th May 30.36 miles, 1295m of ascent
We’d told our landlady that we could get our luggage to the ferry ourselves as it was very close (and downhill) and such an early start. So 6.45am saw us pushing our bikes up their steep drive and then fetching the big rucksacks. It was a slightly wobbly journey but no problem and at 7.30 we were off through the East Tarbert Bays, looking back at the places we’d been to. It was a lovely morning, but once we were out of the bays breakfast called – and very good it was too. The sea was very smooth and we arrived in Uig,  Skye at 9.30 as planned. We waited an hour or so for the taxi to turn up for our luggage, and eventually phoned them – they thought the ferry arrived at 1.30, so we’d have had a long wait. Then we cycled up the zigzag road to the moorland above Uig, pausing for lovely views back over the bay. The narrow road over the northern peninsula of Skye was peaceful and led along a pretty stream gently uphill,  and then suddenly we saw the sharp spine of rocks running up the centre. This took us totally by surprise, the rock formations are dramatic and the steep cliffs face east with paths along the grassy and rocky slopes beneath them. We parked the bikes (and locked them – a strange custom that we’d forgotten about while in the Outer Hebrides!) and set of with our picnic to find some of the best rock formations mentioned in theguidebook. We never really discovered where exactly they were, though we must have walked by or through them, but we had a wonderful walk and sat of the top of a grass-covered mound looking out to sea to eat our lunch. Back on the bikes we freewheeled down to the coast (when we weren’t braking as hard as we could!) and turned south towards Portree. 
The walk had been longer than we’d intended but there was plenty to see on the way and we made a number of brief detours to various interesting sites. We also had tea at Columba 1400, an interesting building and project involving disaffected young people. We passed the Old Man of Storr and through forested areas and finally down into Portree on a newly surfaced road with enough loose grit to make me slow almost to a standstill. Our landlady directed us to her mother-in-law’s next door – they obviously havea business going! The room was super with a bathroom as big as some bedrooms. The vegetarian Bistro we’d hoped to eat in had obviously closed but the place we found had superb food as well – a good end to another good day.
Day 14 Thursday 19th May 56.7 miles 1743m of ascent
Before we set off today we walked down to Portree to explore a shop we had spotted called Skye Batiks. These are made in Sri Lanka to designs such as celtic knots and we found three to hang in our recently decorated dining room. Steve was determined that we should try to get to Port Nan Long in honour of Kenny Giles (one of our best Fred’s Folks band tunes is named after him!).  So we took a very roundabout route to our next B and B – which also just happened to take in the Talisker Distillery. The route started well on a minor road over to the west coast of Skye, but the wind was fairly strongly against us as we turned south down the coast, and realised that the road did not follow the coast but went inland and up and down much more than I had expected.  By the time we reached the turn for the detour to Portnalong after a long run down from the moorland I was feeling we had already been a long way. But we decided to attempt the extra despite rather dull and damp weather necessitating cagoules on and off. There was a steep run down to the village of Carbost, home to the distillery and an even steeper climb up out of it, which even Steve was forced to walk up. But we eventually reached Portnalong and ate our lunch on some rocks at the end of the road to the small pier. It is a real fishing port. We cycled through the village back up onto the moorland and down again to the distillery, to discover that there was a tour due to start a few minutes later. It was very interesting and Steve enjoyed his sample! Then off up the hill again and across the island yet again to the east coast at Sligachan. As we approached the Cuillins the road seemed to disappear into them and it was hard to imagine where it could go, but suddenly we turned sharply left and descended to the famous climber’s hotel where we found a very welcome hot chocolate and shortbread to keep us going. 
The last part left us very glad that we had not stayed on the main road all day. It was really quite busy with lorries, buses and motor-homes as well as cars and we were glad to turn off at one point to a very pretty minor road round a peninsula, even though it did not gain us very much distance. By the time we rejoined the main road it was getting very damp again, but we never got seriously wet. The road through Broadford and out beyond it to the B and B at Breakish seemed never-ending, but once again we received a warm welcome. The only eating place within walking distance was a wonderful (and not cheap) French restaurant in an old school room – the chef came out to advise on our choice of dish and it was all cooked to order. We did feel we’d earned it!
Day 15 Friday 20th May 35.9 miles 1188m of ascent
This was the only really bad weather we had the whole holiday though we set off in some sunshine. The direct route was only 16 miles, but we had decided to try to see otters from the Otter Haven though it meant a climb over the pass to Kylerhea.  It was a pretty run up following a stream and a frighteningly steep descent from the watershed, knowing that there was no other way back. We went beyond the Otter Haven to the ferry terminal for the tiny ferry to the mainland and by the time we got to the Otter Haven the rain was starting and was to last all day. It was a pretty place with good sign boards and a walk to the hide, but along with everyone who had written in the book recently we saw no otters. So it was back to the bikes to attempt the hill. We managed surprisingly well, but did have to walk some of the steepest sections near the top, but we were very pleased with ourselves and even in the rain we enjoyed the run back down to Breakish and the main road. From there the rain got harder but it was too late to put on waterproof trousers and we were pleased that at least the road was of very high quality having just been widened as the main road to the Armadale ferry terminal. We were very wet with shoes full of water by the time we reached the hotel at Isleornsay for a very belated lunch. There was a real fire and welcome soup and a small art gallery with beautiful photographs as well as the base from which so-called ‘gaelic’ whiskies are sold: we bought a bottle for Uncle Andrew and one for ourselves. From here it was a mere 8 miles to Armadale where we stopped to explore the shops at the ferry terminal before doing the last mile to our final hotel. This was again friendly and welcoming though the bar where there was live music after our dinner was very smoky.
Day 16 Saturday 21st May
T he hotel willingly took our luggage to the ferry in the middle of serving breakfast and even got out bikes out of the shed before we ’d asked them. The short trip to Mallaig was easy and Mallaig is a pretty place with lots of boats and a small railway station – the end of the line. The train journey along the coast and through the highlands round Ben Nevis and over Rannoch Moor was again spectacular. We delivered the bikes successfully to Douglas at Fort William Station and rejoined our outward route to return via Glasgow to Edinburgh where we walked to Andrew and Irene’s. She had prepared a meal as good as any in the various hotels and it was very good to see them. In retrospect we are very pleased that we had asked for a bed for the night, as Andrew has sadly since died, so it turned out to be our last opportunity to see him.
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ON THE EDGE OF THE SEA CUSTOMISED TOUR
Don
MacKenzie,Canada 15th-29th
August 2005
 Monday
15thAugust :Arrived in Glasgow in the morning on an overnight
flight from Chicago, took a bus to the Queen Street train station
and the afternoon train to Oban. I was told afterwards that the
train is a fantastic way to see a lot of scenery between Glasgow
and Oban, I wouldn't know since I was asleep most of the ride.
Tuesday
16thAugust: In the morning I explored Oban, a nice town, walked
up to McKaig's Tower. In the afternoon met with Douglas, who explained
the route, went over the equipment, gave me a ride to ferry terminal,
and saw me off on the ferry to Castlebay on the Isle of Barra. Here
is a picture of Oban, McKaig's Tower is in the upper right corner.
Wednesday
17th August:Today was scheduled to be a rest day in Barra, I
was really looking forward to cycling around the island, visiting
Kisimul castle. However, I woke up to a nice steady rain, since
it was first day of cycling I determinedly set off to cycle around
the island only to concede that it was really raining after about
10 miles. So, I visited the local Heritage Center had lunch in the
Heritage Center café and by then the rain had let up, so
I visited Kisimul castle and explored the remainder of Castlebay.
Below is a picture of the castle.
Thursday
18th August:A beautiful day, I cycled up to the Sound of Barra
Ferry. I arrived at the ferry terminal in time to cycle over to
the Barra Airport and take a couple of picture of the Barra Airport
beach landing strip. Took the ferry to Eriskay and cycled to Lionacelit
on the Isle of Benecula. Fantastic weather, beautiful scenery, and
the wind actually was at my back. A very enjoyable day. Below is
a picture of the Barra Airport.
Friday
19th August: Another beautiful day ! Cycled from Lionaceleit
north over the causeway to North Uist, detoured a mile or so to
go the Kirkibost Cultural Center for snack and to send a couple
of emails home. Then cycled on to Lochmaddy, as I approached Lochmaddy
the clouds looked pretty ominous so I stopped in the Lochmaddy Museum
and Arts Center just as it started to rain. I spent an hour or so
in the museum and library looking for any mention of Mackenzies
in the area. After the rain stopped I started to cycle again only
to be surrounded by a swarm of midges that suddenly appeared. Fortunately
a small store was nearby that had some midge repellant. I continued
to cycle on to Berneray. Arrived in Berneray and found it to be
very nice and fortunately so was the B&B I stayed at, Knockard
owned by Mr. and Mrs. Wright.
Saturday
20th August: I took the early ferry (0720) from Sound of  Harris
ferry terminal to Leverburgh, Harris. Another gorgeous cycling day,
cycled the west coast road from Leverburgh to Tarbert past the golden
beaches of Harris. I stopped several times to enjoy the beaches.
Last night Mrs Wright commented that I would find Harris and Lewis
to be quite different from the isles that I had cycled, during the
west coast ride I did not notice much difference however I cycled
a couple of miles on the eastern route or the Golden Road and found
it very hilly. I arrived in Tarbert in time to explore the town,
very nice. Below is a picture of one of the Harris beaches.
Sunday
21st August: I began cycling this morning in misty weather and
outside Tarbert starting climbing hills, no mountains, for several
miles. I now realize why Mr. and Mrs. Wright were smiling when they
said I would find cycling different on Harris and Lewis! Fortunately
when I began descending the hills the rain stopped and I rode the
remainder of the Breascleit in clear weather. I visited the Callanish
Stones, wow! Stayed at the Loch Roag Guesthouse, very nice and a
very good evening meal and breakfast the next morning. Below is
a picture of the Callanish Stones.
Monday
22nd August:I
cycled north from Breasclete towards Stornoway. I stopped at Dun
Carloway and Blackhouse village. At both places I met Lynn and Dave
who also stayed at Loch Roag last night.  At Dun Carloway Dave came
running towards me waving his arms, couldn't figure out why he was
so excited to see me, we had just spoke 5 minutes before, only to
learn it was because a golden eagle was flying behind me. The next
stop was the Blackhouse village which was very cool, I had the opportunity
meet a man and woman (brother and sister) who had lived in one of
the blackhouses until the early 1970s. They showed us (I had met
up with Lynn and Dave again) where they had lived and their grandmother
had lived. The man also demonstrated some weaving of Harris tweed,
his customer - Nike. Then I cycled on to Stornoway, where I stayed
at Mr and Mrs MacDonald's B&B which was very nice. 
Tuesday
23rd August:It rained heavily last night, however this morning
the sun was shining by the time I started cycling from Stornoway
back to Tarbert. The only problem is I was cycling in to a headwind,
all in all a pleasant day of cycling through the beautiful countryside
of Harris and Lewis.
Wednesday
24th August: Today I was scheduled to take the 0730 ferry from
Tarbert to Uig, however the rain and gale force winds that were
predicted last night had arrived. By the morning it was not raining
real hard h owever the wind was blowing about 60 mph. Fortunately
I was staying at the MacLoed Motel and the ferry terminal is right
across the street so I could check about the status of the ferry
throughout the morning. The departure time was delayed a couple
of times and finally at about 1130 the ferry departed to Uig. Since
I arrived in Uig at about 1300 I cycled the shorter more direct
route to Portree. I found Portree to be a very nice town with a
large open town square and a number of interesting shops and restaurants.
Thursday
25th August: I started cycling in sunshine and no wind! The
last of the gales and rain had passed through the area last night.
I started cycling south on the A87 road which had quite a bit of
traffic, so I took the scenic road after passing the Sconser Golf
Course.  This route was fantastic, no traffic and cycling right along
the shore. I arrived in Broadford around noon which was great because
I had time to do some laundry and send/read some emails. I explored
Broadford a little, went to the Skye Serpentarium, then cycled on
to Lower Breakish where I was fortunately booked into Ruisgarry
B&B managed by Mrs. MacLeod. Right is picture I took that evening
in Breakish.
Friday
26th August: Today is my last full cycling day, I start out
from Lower Breakish and cycle towards Teangue which is only 15 miles
away. After reaching Teangue, I cycle on to Armadale Castle and
Gardens which has very nice gardens and a lot of history on the
MacDonald clan as well as clan history in general. Since it was
still early in the day I decided to cycle the optional loop listed
on my route direction that goes by the crafting communities at Tokavaig
and Tarskavaig. It is listed as a 12 mile loop which would cap off
my last cycling day. I should have suspected something was amiss
when there was a sign at the road entrance prohibiting caravans
because of the steep grades. I soon found out when I started climbing
a 14% grade hill and when I got to the downhill portion it was a
20% grade descent. Oh well I survived.
Saturday
27th August: Today I cycled from the very nice Ladharbheinn
B&B owned by Mr. Watson to Armadale ferry terminal, took the
ferry to Mallaig, the train from Mallaig to Glasgow. During a stop
in Fort William I turned in my bicycle and equipment and retrieved
my luggage, which conclude my very enjoyable customized Scottish
Cycling Holidays tour. After spending the 28th in Glasgow, I flew
home on the 29th.
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BETWEEN LAND & SKY (SARDINIA)
1st - 13th Sept 2002
Fi & Gerry Rooney
We enjoyed it our cycling holiday so much we hope that others will
do as well. Where to start really?
Perfect instructions meant we made our way easily throughout the
whole holiday (not even one arguement). The bikes too were good,
very lightweight and we had no trouble with them at all. After the
lift up the hill on day 2, Gerry realised that he had left his helmet
somewhere. Not such a good start ! However, contrary to what the
guide books led us to believe we found the drivers very courteous
and not too fast. We loved the variety of the tour. The remote roads
in the hills were lovely and we had some fantastic views of the
green coastline. The sections along the coast meant we could stop
and swim which we did on at least 6 of the days. It is hard to pick
favourite sections but I'll try to name a few of the more memorable
times:
The road from Alghero to Bosa was lovely for its solitude and views.
Santulussurgiu was a very picturesque village and we loved the hotel
and the food. The quiet road going there was very enjoyable. The
journey from Arborea to Arbus was memorable because we changed our
minds and decided to cycle via Piscinas without getting a lift up
the hill afterwards ! However the view of the sand dune was fantastic
and I would not like to have missed that. We also had a lovely swim
at Piscinas. The climb from Ingurtosu was unforgettable but we were
just glad to arrive in Arbus before dark ! Again the 1km climb out
of Buggerru nearly killed me because the wind was blowing straight
down on us, but the picnic and swim at Cala Domestica made it all
worth the effort. Using the ferries was fun and added nice variety
and we had a nice detour to Porto Pino from St Anna Arressi. We
cycled the 'private' road around the resevoir and it was nice to
be 'off-road' but we worried about what we would say if we were
caught ! Finally the journey along the south coast was delightful
- so many beautiful beaches to stop at and such stunning views.
Every evening the hard climbs were soon forgotten about after a
glass or two (or three ?!) of the local red wine !! Although we
particulary enjoyed the food in Santulussurgiu and Cuglieri, it
was good everywhere and we were never disappointed.
We liked the freedom of carrying our own luggage and because we
have done this before we are quite good at not taking too much and
so it really was no problem carrying it all in the panniers you
lent us. Sandro could not have been more helpful and he seemed genuinely
interested in our trip and how we had enjoyed it.
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NORTH
EAST COASTAL TRAIL
August 2002
Received as an email from the 'Boutellier Family' from Grenoble
in the French Alps - Sunday time after a nice cycle tour in the
mountains, and I take time to send some news to you.
Aberdeen airport: OK, nice welcoming, good bikes with all equipment,
plastic bags and good advices to join the biking road. Starting
on Buckan way: OK, safe, food shop at newmarket, put our clothes
at ellon hotel ( very good , not particularly welcoming) We have
biked again to try to find sands of forvie and collisston but we
didn't find the good road, and we had our dinner in the restaurant's
hotel good ! we've done 31 miles.
Day 2, buckan way again, a stop at the fish farm but it isn't
possible to visit it. after we biked to old deer and aden park very
nice. Then maud, and the railway museum then bike again to turiff.
B&B OK, bad smell in all the town because of pig's farms. 36
miles.
Day 3, turiff-banff; bridge of alvah very very nice. Duff house,
... banff ( very nice to discover north sea), ...Portsoy, we had
a problem with buckled wheel but thanks for Mr Leith's help and
your quick intervention. Night at fordyce and dinner lovely and
really good. 32 miles.
Day 4, we have been to findlater castle. Then along the sea
to Cullen : better for walkers than bikers, but really lovely, beaches,
dolphins; small road aroud the sea to mornay firth, visit of the
wild life center. Guest house of elgin very welcoming. 34 miles.
Day 5, findhorn, swim in the sea ; sun ; Dallas dhu distillery,
brodie castle, nairn. 41 miles.
Day 6, Cawdor castle, family golf, nice road... then Inverness,
it looks a big town with a lot of tourists specially after 6 country
days. Good B&B. 31 miles.
Day 7, We have been to the tourism office to have a map of
the loch ness.We have been to Doress, dunlychity, East croachy...
very nice road and landscapes with beautiful lakes.
then swim at Dores beach. 36 miles.
total 241 miles: it is OK
Day 8, Train to aberdeen OK, B&B Ok, visit of the old
aberdeen( king's college, cathedral, bridge...)
Day 9, Visit of the maritim museum, shopping, bus to the
airport.
It could have been better to stay one day more around inverness
than having this day at Aberdeen.
The most appreciated by all the family: - organisation and bikes
-B&B with 'maxi best of' breakfast
- very good maps and indications all along the roads
- good welcoming of all the scottish people we meet
- and the wonderful views around the lochs
It could be better to avoid the aberdeen day after a so lovely and
wild trip.
You can see all was perfectly organized, very holidays and discovering
programm... The north coast is surprising, so wild.
All along the roads, we saw a lot of wild animals, always lovely.
Great trip, for all 6 of us and nice for us to meet you!!
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NORTH EAST COASTAL TRAIL 18TH – 25TH JUNE 2009
DAY 1
Travelled by National Express train from Kings Cross to Aberdeen – a 7 hour journey without a cup of tea – electrical fault. Worse, no dining car – they had decided to cut it out. No wonder NE have been in trouble with the Regulator! Still, a pleasant journey crossing the famous bridges over the Forth and Tay. Aberdeen appears as a nice, normal city, despite its remoteness. Unlike Bill Bryson’s opinion some decades earlier, it was immediately distinguished by its use of granite which made some streets look quite severe (Peterhead granite is more pink and not so common here). The lack or ornamentation may be due to the fact that it could take weeks to cut a block of granite before steam power. Nice room at Cragganmore. Went into the town for late opening and it was full of people and buses. It so happened that BBC4 was showing a programme about the oil boom. A local man, now in oil, had a meeting with an American oil baron some years ago. After the meeting he asked the American if he needed a taxi. The American said “No, I’ve got one outside.” “You mean he’s been waiting for the past 2 hours?” “No, I’ve hired him for the last 3 weeks”.
DAY 2
Douglas brought the bike at 9am and it turned out to be a fine steed. A sunny but cool start as I decided to do a few miles of the well-known Deeside cycle path and back along the main road. I only wished I had done more research as I missed out on Duthie Park and the incredible 450 foot hole at Rubislaw where they used to quarry granite (and which is now half filled with water). Then across to the Maritime Museum (free and well worth a visit) and Footdee, where the old fishing village was moved to build the docks. Up to the University quarter, a bit like Oxford backstreets, and the first of a series of heavy showers saw me dive for cover in the cathedral. The Sustrans map is out-of-date near Dyce and local signing is all over the place – use an OS map! Slow progress up the Formartine Way as I sheltered under each bridge as showers came along, I had no time to go to Pitmedden so went straight to Ellon. Pleasant hotel but tiny dark room – nice meals though. Walked up to Tescos for some shopping passing a sign “Red squirrels crossing”! 36 miles.
DAY 3
A sunny day which brought out the best of the very agricultural interior of Aberdeenshire. Diverted immediately to Haddo House in time for its opening and a nice tour by a guide who had been the village postman who married the housekeeper! Over to the railway again at Auchnagatt and on to Maud where I was disappointed to hear from the local shop (where I bought lunch) that the railway museum is open once a year if you are lucky. Across to Turriff and the first class hotel where I had the best view in the place – paid for in the price of the evening meal! 33 miles.
DAY 4
Nice late start. Breakfast was a mould of scrambled egg topped by 4 thick slices of poached smoked salmon! Visited a local church (Sunday) where the good welcome and coffee sent me off along the Deveron valley. Took the Sustrans map route (rather than the OS route) along a lane and down s steep muddy track to Alvah Bridge, which was worth it for the spectacular sight of the stone arch 100 feet over the swirling river in its rocky gorge. The track up was just as steep but a fine woodland track to Duff House. Not having an insatiable appetite for portrait paintings, even if national treasures, I was a little disappointed that it was so geared to these (and a vibrant exhibition of a local landscape painter). Nearby Banff didn’t excite me but the sea path was nice and the camp site café at Whitehills does excellent fresh tea in a mug – as I looked across the steel blue cold sea under the blue sky. Beware the dangerous bend at Scotsmill outside Portsoy where the cycle sign sends you ahead across oncoming traffic speeding round the bend! DFiverted to Fordyce with its traffic jam of 2 tractors, to the nice accommodation at Sandend. 29 miles.
DAY 5
The railway viaducts at Cullen are just as spectacular as the literature says, and I spent a good few minutes just looking across the area of tight housing towards the sea. Then the gradual climb up to Portknockie and Findochty, 2 sea villages that would be most interesting in their own right had not several similar places already been passed! Disregarding Sustrans’ ‘avoid all roads if possible’ route, I went along the whole coast road through Buckie and was rewarded by real boatyards where the lifeboat fleet is maintained – one boat had been floated into a submersible cradle which had been driven up the slipway and was waiting to roll across the main road, after lunch. Diverted to Spey Bay, where the Spey meets the sea, with its absorbing natural history museum – and café – although the ice houses were closed for lunch. The long bowstring railway viaduct takes you across a strange nomansland where you feel slightly uneasy at looking down onto the aftermath of the last river rage – temporary gravel banks and dead whole trees – knowing that it could spring to life again with you precariously just above it. Arrived at Elgin, still a small town but with pretentions as the local metropolis with a Tesco that never closes. The cathedral ruin really has made the most of a limited resource and the climb up the tower, with its last vertiginous stage onto the roof, should not be missed. Pity about the pathetic modern station replacing the really atmospheric old station, now ‘removed’ from its tracks, with its extensive glass awnings, majestic frontage and spacious old booking hall now serving as the covered cycle park to suites of professional offices in old rooms. An unexpectedly wet evening saw me walking the town trail taking in the White Horse, which still wished me a merry Christmas, and a woman handcuffed to 2 police officers leaving Tesco! 33 miles.
DAY 6
A long day planned today. First I visited the ruined abbey at Kinloss where you can see the remains of the warming room where the only fire outside the kitchen was kept from 1st November to Good Friday to warm the monks, and the Findhorn Foundation. This I found to be a mix of the querky and modern sustainable building practices, with its own wind farm. But all was in a rather unreal New Age soup and many of the pleasant people seemed once to have been a hippie. After finding little to detain me at Forres I made for Culbin Forest. I had already known about this vast 20 square mile forest and how it had been planted to stabilise enormous sand dunes which centuries ago engulfed a whole community in a storm. I picked up a brochure at Elgin and spent an enjoyable 5 miles round tracks leading to a 100 foot high platform itself on a 100 foot sand dune, affording views right across to the western highlands. Then via Brodie Castle (the titled owner – and we are at number 27 - is always called the ‘Brodie of Brodie’) and to Nairn. 48 miles.
DAY 7
The weather has really settled down although I had a warning last afternoon as the sea ‘steamed’ with mist. This morning it had turned into thick cold fog but this broke and a hot sunny day followed as I turned inland through the very pleasant forest where the hills have drawn closer to the sea. The gorge at Rereach was unexpected and dramatic. As I swept down under the 32 arch Culloden Viaduct to the battle site visitor centre, it had become so warm that I remained indoors instead of doing the outside bit! (The Queen visited the centre just a few days later). All that was now left was the fast descent into the ‘string of beads’ that is the eastern sprawl of Inverness where I was told by a flashing sign that I was exceeding 30mph. My speedo showed 23mph and its accuracy was verified by a second read-out sign. It so happened that I was able to report this error to highway workers down the road! I did a full tour of the nicer parts of east Inverness before reporting to my accommodation and starting out again for the shops and the Kessock Bridge. As I sat outside the café in North Kessock eating my meal in the hot sun I saw a dark cloud approach from the city and just made it back to a railway bridge in time! 43 miles.
The total was 222 miles and the weather was very good for this part of the world (although Moray calls itself the Brighton of Scotland because of its high sunshine totals). All in all, with accommodation, weather and range of interesting places this was quite an eye opener and well worth doing. One of the best tours I have done.
John Spurgeon
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TATRA MOUNTAINS TOUR
Bill Hamilton, Aubrey Foddering, Ian Johnston from St Albans
(Saturday 31 May to Saturday 7 June 2008)
SATURDAY 31 MAY
Though now well into our sixties, the three of us have enjoyed cycling for as long as we care to remember and like to escape from Hertfordshire once or twice a year to find new and interesting routes in which to indulge our favourite pastime. For this adventure, we booked our fares to Krakow from Luton through the easyJet website three months ahead for £64, including taxes and luggage charges – a remarkable fare considering it’s a two and a half hour flight each way. Our flight left on time and arrived ten minutes early, so no complaints there! We had ordered a taxi in advance and a very smart young lady was waiting at Krakow Balice Airport to drive us in a brand new Mercedes minibus directly to the Hotel Wyspianski. The journey cost us just £4 each and as the driver spoke excellent English, she pointed out many of the city sights en route.
Scottish Cycling Holidays use Bird Service as the Tour Provider – an excellent choice. Their organisation and commitment are geared to ensuring you get the utmost enjoyment from your holiday.
On the first evening, they arranged dinner at the Amadeus Restaurant just off the famous Krakow Old Town Square. There, we met up with the other cyclists who would also be embarking on the self-guided tour. All were from Belgium, most of them care assistants working with people suffering from severe mental disabilities. Like us, they were eagerly looking forward to their break in a part of Eastern Europe that none had visited before. The other Belgian, a legal officer, was on his own. Wim Van Cauwenberche, we were soon to discover just loved exploring and was determined not to miss anything of interest along the way. We were to become firm friends. We were told we were the first cyclists from the UK to join this particular tour which meant that one of the tour organisers spent hours translating the road book with all the directions for the next seven days from Flemish into English. Most impressive. Being three in our party, we decided that we would take it in turns to have the single room. As the week progressed, it worked extremely well.
SUNDAY 1 JUNE
The 1st of June … summer must have arrived! The sun is out, the temperature is rising.
A short walk from the hotel and we are at Bird Service offices to collect our bikes. 21 speed hybrid models complete with pannier bags provided, large enough in size to take everything you need for a day’s cycling. Puncture repair outfits were also handed out as well as bicycle pumps – ah, the only criticism … few pumps issued with modern bikes seem to be of any real use these days … let’s get back to the old fashioned ones! We were then allowed two hours to explore Krakow, sufficient time to get a feel of the place but with so much of interest to see, you really ought to add another day to your holiday. Still, we were able to cycle round the Old Town, see many of the historic buildings close up and visit the grounds of the Royal Castle.
At 12 noon, we loaded our luggage on to a trailer behind our minibus and set off on a two-hour journey to the village of Zab, the highest in Poland. Within minutes of our bikes being unloaded, we found ourselves on top of a steep hill with panoramic views across the Tatra Mountains, the highest range of the Carpathians which form an arc of approximately 1500 kms from the Czech Republic in the North West to Slovakia, Ukraine and Romania in the East. Little did we think as we gazed across in wonderment that we would be standing at the very summit the following morning! If the views were spectacular, so too was the long steep downhill ride into the valley below as we set off on the 30 kms route to the Polish skiing resort of Zakopane …. or 40 kms in our case as we foolishly misread the road book and took a wrong turn after crossing the railway line. Oh, and the instructions forgot to tell us about a long, arduous uphill climb once we got back on track which, at the hottest part of the day, demanded a fifteen minute stop to down a large glass of the best Polish beer!
We were certainly ready for dinner on arrival at the modern Hotel Bialy Potok in Zakopane. Here, we could meet up with our Belgian friends again and exchange stories about our varying adventures. Though there were no choices offered on the evening meals during the trip, they were all excellent value for money and offered a chance of trying local Polish gastronomy. The Poles love their soup … vegetable, beetroot, meat, you name it, you’ll find it … not forgetting the excellent dumplings! Even after the first day’s cycling, we were feeling pretty exhausted and ready for a good night’s sleep. No outside interference here, the hotel was right on the edge of a forest.
MONDAY 2 JUNE
When you’ve got Aubrey in your party and an inquisitive Belgian in the shape of Wim, you know you’re unlikely to miss much … so full marks to these two gentlemen who discovered a major attraction missing from the route guide. Just three miles from the hotel and involving one long climb which means pushing the bikes most of the way, you arrive at the cable car station at the foot of Kasprowy Wierch one of the most spectacular mountains in the Tatra range. One word of warning, get there EARLY … when we arrived shortly after 9.30, the queue stretched hundreds of yards. The temperature was over 90F and we were in two minds whether to turn back. What a mistake that would have been! It took nearly an hour and an half to reach the cash desk and we were mighty glad we had applied sun cream as the heat was unbearable. Yet ten minutes later, we were at 7,000 feet and trudging through snow! The cabin aerial ropeway is a magnificent feat of engineering. You have to change cars midway at Myslenicke Turnie mount. At the top, you can easily walk the extra distance to the summit which straddles the Polish-Slovakian border – left foot in one country, right foot in another. And with not a cloud in the sky, a superb view of both! Breathtaking and let’s hope you bring your camera – fortunately, we did!
Sadly, we couldn’t stay all day on the peaks … there was still a 54 kms cycle ride ahead – one of the longest of the week. Would we make the night’s hotel in time for dinner?
A real bonus lay ahead. Cycle downhill through Zakopane – a bit of a tourist trap this one – to the Funicular at the other side of town. More spectacular views of the Tatras from the top and then, hey presto, a seven mile downhill ride all the way to Chocholow, a village which is now a living, open-air museum of vernacular timber architecture. Lunch in the village inn was inexpensive and most satisfying, enough to fortify us for the still considerable journey to follow.
Most of the route was along quiet country lanes. Everywhere, farmers could be seen using horses to work the meadows, harrowing the fields and collecting in the hay. Entire families were helping with the harvest and assembling the stooks of hay by hand.
Towards the end of the day, we cycled past the point where the White and Black Dunajec rivers meet. Then to avoid a main road, the route specified a ride along a riverside path. Oops, the path suddenly becomes a stony, uneven and overgrown track – are you sure this is easier than the road? Still, by now we are nearly at our overnight stop … well, not quite, a mile long uphill is still to be tackled (now I wonder why that wasn’t mentioned in the daily notes?) before we reach the Pensjonat Nathanael at Lopuszna. Rather exhausted, we would have appreciated a lift to take our luggage to the second floor but alas, it did not exist! Time for dinner and to explain our late arrival to the Belgians. I think they were probably a little envious of our detour to the top of the Tatras … but hey, isn’t this what holidays are all about?!!
TUESDAY 3 JUNE
We can’t believe this weather – another glorious sunny day. What greater incentive can there be to get on the saddle and away! Apart from one long 2km uphill in the afternoon, most of the way today is flat and great efforts have been made to ensure we keep off any busy roads. After buying some fruit and chocolate at the village shop in Nowa Biala, we reach a beautiful nature reserve reached by a forest track beside the Bialka River. Here a small gorge appears between two limestone rocks, a perfect place for a picnic. It’s a favourite spot for children and two school parties were enjoying themselves, playing games by the river’s edge. Aubrey discovered one of the nuns in charge had dropped a bag of smarties and with the agility of a teenager jumped across a series of stepping stones to ensure the excited children didn’t miss out on one of the treats of the day!
Today’s journey was an interesting loop and a real step back in time as we watched villagers working in the fields and their little terrier dogs snapping at our heels as we wound our way down the back lanes with rarely a car to be seen. In Debno, workmen were busy constructing new pavements around Poland’s oldest wooden church built in 1500 and now protected as a UNESCO World Heritage site. By late afternoon, we were descending again to the village of Niedzica with plenty of time to explore the castle which in a Dracula-like setting is perched on limestock rock high above the Dunajec river. A new artificial reservoir, the Czorsztyn Lake was created in 1994 by damning the river downstream of the castle. You can cycle across the top of the dam which affords splendid views of this lovely area of Poland which used to be part of Hungary. In the castle itself, you can explore the dungeons and torture chambers. There’s also an interesting museum whose collections include antique clocks, archaeological artefacts and a display of ancient guns and weaponry. Our overnight stop was at the Hotel Pieniny and a chance here to relax in the new Jacuzzi before dinner and a chance to try yet another of the local beers.
WEDNESDAY 4 JUNE
Scottish Cycling Holidays advertised today as the highlight of the trip. We would not disagree. After a hearty breakfast, we were ready to tackle an early uphill climb. In fact, we performed so well that a group of young children waiting by the side of the road for the school bus, applauded the three of us as we reached the top without dismounting. Even their teachers smiled and gave us a cheer! Within a few miles, we arrived at the Polish-Slovakian border where a new suspension bridge for cyclists and pedestrians (built with EU funds) crosses the Dunajec. Our first taste of Slovak life was in a very colourful village called Cerveny Klastor. Here you are able to visit a former Cartesian Monastery which is now a National Cultural Monument. Known as the Red Monastery, it dates back to the 14th Century and it gives you a wonderful insight into the lives of the Cartesian and Camaldulsian monks whose disciplined lives consisted of isolation, permanent silence, fasting, prayers, contemplation and the writing and copying of books.
Almost immediately on leaving the monastery, we entered the Pieninski National Park and on to the cycle path known as the Pieniny Way which runs for several miles along a narrow ledge carved out of the cliff and running the whole length of the Dunajec Gorge.
The gorge makes seven loops and the surrounding rock reaches 300 metres in height almost all the way through. Looking down from the path, you see a whole succession of wooden rafts negotiating the swift current as visitors are punted along the river by local boatmen dressed in national costume. Like us, their eyes are focused on the picturesque crags and peaks, steep rocky walls and high precipices dropping down to the river. Halfway along the path, we come across a young man with a problem. His rear tyre is punctured. Aubrey and Ian are quick to the rescue, the inner tube is quickly repaired but the pump we have been given is useless. Bill stops several other cyclists but pumps are in short supply and none of the ones we try are able to do the trick. An hour later, an elderly cyclist finally produces an old style pump and our young Slovak rider is back in business!
At the end of the gorge, we taste some Slovakian cuisine al fresco – so far, the sun has been a welcome and permanent feature of this holiday!
After crossing back into Poland, we make our way uphill to our overnight stop at Hotel Navigator in the town of Szczawnica. A rather sullen lady on reception urges us to get into the dining room at once. Dinner is at 6pm – it’s now 6.30! We suggested it would be a good idea if we stored our bikes first, removed our helmets and had a wash. A warning here – some hotels seem to insist on a set time for dinner though the message has clearly not been conveyed to the tour organisers. After dinner, we went for a stroll and entered a club where local folk music was blasting from the speakers. We were made most welcome at what appeared to be a social evening for the Over 60s though Aubrey refused all offers to take to the dance floor when it came to an old Scots tradition of “Ladies Choice!”
THURSDAY 5 JUNE
Up bright and early and though a longer ride ahead, we decide to be first in the queue for Szczawnica’s chairlift “which in winter takes skiers to the top of Palenica (722 metres above sea level). In summer, apart from the spectacular views, there are other attractions including a very popular gravity toboggan run suitable even for beginners! What fun – you can apply the brake at any time though the thought did cross our minds that Health and Safety might have a few questions to ask about this fun ride back home.
For much of the day we follow the banks of the Dunajec, first along a dedicated cycle path but then for long stretches on a very busy main road. The organisers did arrange several diversions along back roads but unfortunately, this was not always possible making this particular route dangerous for inexperienced cyclists and especially children.
By afternoon, we returned to the tranquillity of the countryside, riding past orchards lining the valley slopes. At one village, we were amazed when entering the local shop to see shelves stretching as far as the eye could see and packed with food, clothes and goods of every kind. By mid afternoon, our map reading went slightly awry so too did the road book. For once the R (for right) should have read L (for left). By the time we had discovered the mistake, we had just enjoyed a superb 2-mile freewheel down into the valley. Locals, trying to help us out of our plight, used sticks to draw a route in the farmyard dust. No matter our pleas, it was quickly evident we would have to retrace our steps right back to the top of the hill. This would involve more hiking than cycling.
Despite our ill fortune, we still reached our overnight stop at Ryto in good time for dinner. The owner of Hotel Janina looked happy to see us but sitting down with our Belgian friends we were amazed to find only soup and desert spoons on the table. Perhaps the hotel had forgotten that cycling all day gives you something of an appetite. We need not have worried. Into Bill’s hand was slipped a scrap of paper with 19.30 written on it. “Outside” the lady shouted. And out we went to find the most marvellous barbecue being prepared with a brown trout each, caught that very day from the river, followed by sausages and salad. Time to produce the “See You Jimmie” hat to add a little Scottish flavour to a delightful evening.
FRIDAY 6 JUNE
Every morning, a van arrived to transport our luggage to the next port of call. It makes the whole trip so much more enjoyable. Previous experience has taught us how difficult life becomes when you have to carry a week’s belongings with you to add to the weight of the bike. Today, the luggage would go straight on to the trailer of the bus that would collect us at the delightful town of Stary Sacz for the 2 hour journey back to Krakow.
This meant we had just an easy morning ride through the Poprad Valley and time to explore the shops in Stary’s town square before our rendezvous with our bus driver near the railway station. Everywhere stewards were hurrying us along, desperate it seemed to clear the road. Turning the final bend, we found out why … over a hundred exasperated cyclists and a starter with gun in the air were waiting for us to clear their path so the town’s big cycle race could get underway.
On the return to Krakow, the bus called at the city of Nowy Sacz to allow us time for lunch in the market square overlooking the very unusual neo-gothic Town Hall. No sooner had we finished lunch than the heavens opened – our first experience of rain during the entire week but our cycling adventure was already over – perfect timing!
Arriving back at Krakow, we took our bikes back to Bird Service and were then invited to dinner at a restaurant in the Jewish Kazimierz district. A casual stroll through town preceded a nutritious meal. A plate of duck, fine wines and live Klezmer music was the perfect ending to our cycling holiday, though a drunken resident banished from the Hotel Wyspianski, interrupted a good night’s sleep as he continued with his loutish behaviour in the concourse outside.
SATURDAY 7 JUNE
As our return flight was not until 16.55, we had made a prior arrangement with the Escape2Poland travel company (you can phone them in London on 0208 819 7468) for a mini-bus to pick us up from the Hotel Wypsianski at 8.30 for a trip to the Auschwitz and Birkenau Concentration Camps. The whole trip including admission to the camps and an English guide cost just £30 each and the driver carried our luggage on board and took us straight to the airport on our return. Obviously, this is a highly emotional experience and hard to take on board the extent of the cruelty perpetrated here. Up to 1.5 million Jews and other nationals died in the gas chambers or through slave labour or starvation. As the memorial to the Holocaust rightly states Auschwitz must serve as a warning to humanity.
It may have seemed a sombre end to our holiday but there could be no greater reminder that the freedom we enjoy has come at an enormous cost. The most sinister event in history cannot be allowed to happen again.
Lots to reflect on then on our return flight to Luton. As for the cycling tour, it is one we would highly recommend and excellent value for money. Our thanks to Janette and the team at Scottish Cycling Holidays for their efficiency and excellent service. Make no mistake, we’ll be embarking on another adventure in the very near future!
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Cycle the Kingdom of Fife
TRAVEL DIARY – JOHN SPURGEON
11th June – 19th June 2007.
Perth had apparently had a very warm day when I arrived by train from London without incident. It was not to last!
Day 1. After a comfortable night at Comely Bank Cottage it was still raining in the morning but my first stop was just a short downhill ride to Scone Palace where, after waiting briefly at the gates, I became the first visitor of the day. Dressed in rain jacket and overtrousers (which, with shorts, I find more comfortable than full trousers) I padded around the house and garden and café – even playing the Palace organ (with permission)! The dull day had at least dried up but became no brighter or warmer but the ride to Glamis was interesting. Leaving the big hoose till the next day, and comforted by a kind phone message that Mr Jarron (Hatton of Ogilvy) would take me down to the village and back after a meal in the hotel, I willingly pushed the laden bike up the steep hill to the next night’s stop. This was very pleasant indeed – a living farm with a fine large room. 32miles.
Day 2 saw me at Glamis Castle which is quite dramatic. Not spending an overlong time there I backtracked to Newtyle and then followed the old railway (though not on it) up the hill to a plain high in the hills and along lanes to finish by going down a steep hill into suburban Dundee. Here I took the extensive Green Circular (actually on the old railway in places) as the sun appeared, but on gaining the shore of the Tay I had a 3mile headwind which, despite the fitful sun, froze me solid! The town was still rather sparkling and after passing under the Tay Bridge (watching workmen struggle to get off a barge and onto the scaffolding!) warmed up a bit at the really good Discovery Exhibition (Captain Scott’s boat to Antarctica). It was now time to head into the wind again over the Road Bridge to a converted riverside building in Wormit, which I had all to myself! Open the window and you are almost able to touch the water. Dinner was in the Tay Bridge Halt, an excellent local. 30miles.
Day 3 saw me back over the bridge to complete a first impression of Dundee. Weaving around the western and eastern (dock) sides of the centre I was particularly fascinated to see they have embedded the old tramlines in the High Street pedestrianised zone. Calling briefly at the Episcopalian Cathedral (where there is a memorial to the inventor of the adhesive postage stamp!) I proceeded in the sun but headwind through Tentsmuir Forest where the shelter actually made a stop quite pleasant. Pushed on by a school party I arrived at St Andrews where you can actually forget golf, so interesting are the university, civic and general buildings along the 3 major streets.
Day 4 was a rest day but I was attracted by the East Neuk of Fife which I would otherwise miss. The day was again dull, cold and very windy (from the E as usual) and at times I was very uncomfortable indeed. But this is a fascinating area and much came out even in this weather: the totally absorbing Scottish Nuclear Bunker at Troywood, the unbelievable streets of packed houses at Cellardyke which could have come out of Cornwall, the first class fish and chips at the award-winning restaurant in Anstruther Easter, and the waves crashing over the breakwaters at Pittenweem (where the houses are actually built into the sea). 35miles.
On Day 5 I had to travel to the opposite end of Fife and the weather started very wet – I was becoming adept at hunting down bus shelters wherein to change layers of clothing. Much of the scenery was lost as I kept my head down but I am sure there were fine views – somewhere! Kirkaldy is a working class town, home of Prime Minister Brown, but it is also something of a seaside town and I tool shelter in a portakabin snackbar (full of locals eating impossibly fattening food!). After a long climb up to Longloch a track passed attractively between stone walls and fields of cattle to descend steeply to Burntisland which exudes the late Victorian money from Edinburgh. Even small detached bungalows had castle turrets in the corner! The ride to Aberdour Hotel was at times on a most attractive wooded ledge between railway and seawall. 39miles.
The hotel was plain but clean and I had no difficulty with noisy customers 2 floors below.
Day 6 was a Sunday and I took a different route via Rosyth to central Dunfermline, passing the Forth Bridges on the way. The sun was quite warm in the Abbey precincts where I attended a service and visited the museum (with a personal guide!). Attacking the steep hills out of the town I found myself in the Cleish Hills where I saw 3 funnel clouds (incipient tornados) in one cloud over Saline (to the west). The weather was otherwise better and I sailed down the hill towards Kinross where my accommodation was a most luxurious farmhouse at Mawcarse. Fathers Day and recent floods at nearby Milnathort meant I missed a meal that day as the only open pub was packed. 34miles.
Day 7 completed the tour round to Falkland Castle, situated in another gem of a village with a first class popular restaurant (I quickly forgave NTS for not having one at the Castle). The I attacked Pitmedden Forest (in stages), finishing on a sunny log looking at a red squirrel run across just feet in front of me and up a tree. I could reasonably call this a fine day as I sailed down Abernethy Glen to Bridge of Earn and finally into Perth. 31miles.
This was certainly a complete contrast in weather to last year, with an almost constant cold easterly. At times I wondered why I was doing this, but at the end of the day and often during the day the reason was abundantly clear: this part of Scotland has unique treasures which can equally come to life in ordinary weather when the tourists are few. The tiredness will disappear and the recollections of the sights will remain. It may have been cold and windy but rain affected me on only 2 half days - in England there were floods!
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Scottish
Cycling Holidays
87 Perth Street, Blairgowrie, Perthshire
Scotland PH10 6DT
Telephone 01250 876100 Fax 01250 873383
E-mail info@scotcycle.co.uk
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